Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

Thursday, 18 June 2015

Moog-Polyevolver Jam

Sat 6th June.
Paul has new studio.
Checked out some toys.


What's not to love about the MiniMoog Voyager XL - it's got everything - ribbon controllers, touch pads, midi, CV, great filters, it's semi modular .... the list is endless.

Remix # 2
Moogerfoogers .... Mmmmmmm :-)



Dave Smith Poly Evolver & Korg Stage Piano




Video 2 - mainly samples of the Korg stage paino & DS polyevolver:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htzelyiRlJo

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

Serge TKB build notes - 10 - Wiring the Faceplate to PCB

***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build *** 

We are almost there.:-)

We need to make the final connections between the Faceplate and the PCB.
This is the guide:

What do these numbers & letters stand for ? (from left to right):
G – VERT CLOCK
7 – ABCD OUT
3 – A OUT
4 – B OUT
5 – C OUT
6 – D OUT
8 – KV
P – KEYBOARD PULSE
V – PRESSURE
K – RESET
L  – RESET
J – RANDOM SELECT
2 – ON/OFF Switch (Tab closest to panel edge)
N – CLOCK
H – HOLD
M – UP/DOWN
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The 4 pot boards also need to be wired to the PCB
 9 – A POTS
10 – B POTS
11 – C POTS
12 – D POTS
--------------------------------------------
17 – LED RETURN

This is how you connected in the 1970s.
I've circled in red  connections 11 & 12 to C & D pots

I'm connecting the A,B,C,D pots from here on the modern TKB:

Almost home. 

Just need to connect # 17 ... the LED RETURN

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***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***

Monday, 15 June 2015

Serge TKB Build notes - 9 - Ribbon cables S2 & S3

***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***

Now it's time to attach the second & third ribbon cables.
It total there are 3 ribbon cables that connect the main PCB with the front panel.
They are named S1, S2 & S3.

S1 connects the TOUCH PADS (I have already done this).
S2 connects the PULSE OUTS
S3 connects the  POT BOARDS

On the PCB the connectors are our 16 pin male headers.

 S1 is the header on the right. S2 is the lower header on the left. (S3 above this).
The connections on a vintage TKB are exactly the same.

It's fun to read the original 1970's instructions for building this kit.
They read:
"Connect the three ribbon cables to the appropriate places. Note that one is wired along the row of pulse output jacks, one is wired along the bottom row of potentiometers (with the wires which were not soldered in step 3). The ribbon cable which goes to the TOUCH assembly goes through the cut-outs in the panel to the 16 connectors along the top edge of the TOUCH Panel. There should be the absolute minimum of bare wire extending up from the solder connection to prevent shorts when the TOUCH Panel is installed onto the metal panel. The wires from the ribbon cable that are soldered to the small pads going to the large touch pads should not be inserted into the holes. These leads should be cut very short, and soldered flat onto the pad, using a minimum of solder. It won't affect the operation if wires or solder extend through these holes, but for best appearance this should be."

First up, I'll install the S2 cable.
This connects to the 16 red pulse out sockets.

To clamp the female headers I've used a simple bench clamp.

Now it's time for S3


Below are the ribbon cables on the vintage TKB.
Notice that the S3 cable in the centre connects directly to the pots.

Connect the ground pads with some wire.

It's almost time to start connecting the PCB to all those upper jacks & the PSU

The power connections are circled in red (from top to bottom):

Z  -12V (WHITE) 
X  +12V (RED)
W  GND (BLACK)

Starting with the ground first.

 On the other side of the pot boards it looks like you only need to connect one of the pot boards to the ground terminal of the PCB. May as well connect the same wire to the toggle switch (middle terminal).
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***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***

 

Friday, 12 June 2015

ARP 2500 & NLC

Wow - Andrew F of Nonlinear Circuits is restoring this baby.

It's another ARP2500. There are now three of these babies in Australia (as far as I know).
These pics were taken in Japan.

Here is the link to his blog about its restoration.
http://arp2500.blogspot.com.au/
Have fun Andrew.

Some close ups:
 The modules from left to right are:
1023  x 2 - Dual Voltage Controlled Oscillator
1004-T - Voltage Controlled Oscillator
1047 - Multimode Filter/Resonator
1006 x 2 - Filtamp
1046 - Quad Exponential Envelope Generator
1016 - Dual Noise/Random Voltage Source
1045 x 2 - Voltage Controlled Voice
1036 - Dual Sample & Hold/Random Voltage Generator.
1027 - Ten-Position Sequencer
1050 - Mix/Sequencer
1002 - Power Supply.

Notice the ribbon controller...It's a Moog 1150.

Side cabinet 1.
The modules are (from left to right):
1023 - Dual Voltage Controlled Oscillator.
      (It has had 2 switches and 2 pots added to the panel.
       Neither of the switches were wired to anything.)
      More info and pics of this module can be seen here
1006 - Filtamp
1033 - Dual Delayed Exponential Envelope Generator
1027 - Sequencer:
1050 - Mix/Sequencer
1002 - Power Supply.

Side Cabinet 2:
The modules from left to right are:
1004-T - Voltage Controlled Oscillator
1047 x 2 - Multimode Filter/Resonator
1004-P - Voltage Controlled Oscillator
1005 - Modamp
1046 - Quad Exponential Envelope Generator
1002 - PSU

The 1004 VCO comes in two varieties, the T & the P.
The 1004T is the same as the 1004P, except the P also has inverted waveforms.

This is a mystery at the moment. It's obviously a home brew 2500 addition (as if the current system wasn't already big enough). Andrew is currently working out what these modules do.
Some of the DIY modules are just a panel with no PCB behind. So the question is what to
do with the empty spaces?? Maybe add some NLC modules???

So far he has identified (from right to left):
1.  Reverb (extreme right) - the one with the big black dial.
2. Matrix mixer ??
3. DIY modules #4 - dunno - so far a mystery (3rd from the right)
4. Fixed Bandpass Filter (4th from the right)
5.  Clock (5th from the right) - this one uses numitrons -- how cool is that :-)

I love this old skool technology.
Numitron tubes are like Nixies, but instead of the ten number-shaped filaments in each Nixie, Numitrons use eight tiny incandescent filaments arranged in seven to make the number plus a decimal point. When a current is passed through the filaments you want lit up they literally light up just like a light bulb.  
Nixies use high voltages, but Numitrons generally use low volatges.

I'll update this as Andrew unravels the truth.

Finally, on it's way to Australia

Tuesday, 9 June 2015

TKB Build Notes - 8 - Wiring the Touch Keyboard Strip

***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***

I've cut the ribbon strip to about 60com..... could prob make it a bit longer to make attachment to the mother board easier in the future.
The 16 individual wires from the ribbon strip were separated and cut to different lengths.
(sorry for the out of focus pic).

To quote the 1970 instructions:
"Cut the ribbon cable so that each wire is exactly 1" shorter than the adjacent wire, as shown in the diagram above. This can be done by peeling the blue wire back to 6" from the plug, then peeling the green wire to 7" from the plug, then the yellow wire to 8" and so on. The longest wire will be the brown wire. The length of the brown wire should be about 22". Usually the ribbon cables packed with the TKB kits ore much longer. Strip away about l/8 of insulation and tin the leads for ease of soldering in the following steps."

On the other end I used a female header.
It attaches to the mother board thus:

 Below is a pic of the header 70's style:
To quote the 1970's building the TKB kit instruction manual:
"The wiring of the TKB is made easier with the use of 16-pin 'header' plugs that fit into IC sockets on the KBD PC board. The main wiring consists of connecting the various ground busses and signal busses to form a matrix with the 64 potentiometers".

This is a pic of the vintage TKB. - also using the 16 wire ribbon. Construction methods between the old and new are very similar. Nice one Zthee.


Next I installed the wires connecting the touch board with the 16 red pulse out sockets
In the clone they run under the pot boards.
 Here's how they did it back in the 1970's:

Finally soldering these wires to the touch board.
First, the connections to the pulse outs.
I've propped this up with some books.

The 1970 instructions read as follows:
"Position the TOUCH assembly on the panel face where it will later be installed, but do not peel away the backing from the double stick tape. Using masking tape, tape the TOUCH assembly so that it is in an open position as shown in the diagram. Now the wires from the red Pulse Output Jacks can be installed, feeding under the potentiometer wiring matrix, through the cut-outs on the panel, to the LED pads on the underside of the TOUCH Panel. These sixteen pads are in the center of the underneath of the TOUCH Panel. The end pads are split into two sections. The wire to pad 17 will be soldered onto one section as seen from the diagram."



Nice.

Next : Installing the S2 & S3 Ribbon Cables
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***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***


Thursday, 4 June 2015

TKB Build - 7 Assembly of the front panel

TKB Build - 7 - Assembly of the front panel
Ah, finally the fun part.
Installing jacks, switches, etc.

***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***

We need:
  • 7 x Blue banana jacks
  • 24 x Red banana jacks
  • 1x Shoulder washer
  • 1 x  SPDT toggle

A comparison between the cloned TKB and a vintage one:

Of course, if you want to, you can install jacks with whatever colour you like.
However, if you wish to remain true to the history and legacy of Serge, 24 red & 7 blue are the traditional.
colours
The Vintage TKB is on the top.

The Vintage SPDT switch

Next step: the ribbon cable that attaches to the touch keyboard.
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***Click here for the Index of the TKB Build ***