This is a great little unit which does much more that it's looks like it does.
A beautiful union between craft and machine. Polished aluminium vs wood.
They are all handmade in Brooklyn NY.
Features include:
• Vibrato Synth
• Harmonic Sweeper
• Two-Octave Arpeggiator
• Octave Cascade
• Mono FM Synth
• FM Arpeggiator
I haven't got around to hacking this yet.
Begging to be opened up and attacked with a soldering iron.
There is also a midi version
www.critterandguitari.com
www.facebook.com/critterandguitari
www.twitter.com/critterguitari
www.instagram.com/critterguitari
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Wednesday, 17 February 2016
Wednesday, 27 January 2016
Roland 303 acid with a Korg Volca drum
Testing out the modified Korg Volca Drum.
We modified the snare and added Midi out.
Sounds great.
Everything I play the TB-303 I marvel at the filter. It's really what makes this instrument so special.
It is described as a ‑24dB/octave filter diode ladder (built with transistors) but it is actually made up of four ‑6dB/octave stages connected one after another. The sound cascades from one stage to the next producing a rounding‑off of the initial filter slope. The sound takes a bit longer to travel to the last stage which makes it sound brighter.
The unusual decision to build the diode ladder with transistors adds to its unique sound. Roland chose to use transistors wired up as diodes.
Read http://www.timstinchcombe.co.uk/synth/diode_18_24/diode.html.
for more info
You can see the drum mods here:
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2016/01/korg-volca-beats-modding-circuit.html
We modified the snare and added Midi out.
Sounds great.
Everything I play the TB-303 I marvel at the filter. It's really what makes this instrument so special.
It is described as a ‑24dB/octave filter diode ladder (built with transistors) but it is actually made up of four ‑6dB/octave stages connected one after another. The sound cascades from one stage to the next producing a rounding‑off of the initial filter slope. The sound takes a bit longer to travel to the last stage which makes it sound brighter.
The unusual decision to build the diode ladder with transistors adds to its unique sound. Roland chose to use transistors wired up as diodes.
Read http://www.timstinchcombe.co.uk/synth/diode_18_24/diode.html.
for more info
You can see the drum mods here:
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2016/01/korg-volca-beats-modding-circuit.html
Thursday, 21 January 2016
ARP 2500 DIY cabinet
Some more pics from the mysterious Japanese ARP2500 DIY cabinet.
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/06/arp-2500-nlc.html
Andrew of NLCs is working on some of the modules.
They will eventually be reunited. For the moment I thought it would be good to document the case in its current state.
Before this system arrived we had no idea what to expect.
Five of the DIY modules are just a panel with no PCB behind.
So far Andrew has identified (from right to left):
1. Reverb (extreme right) - the one with the big black dial.
2. Matrix mixer ??
3. DIY module - dunno - so far a mystery (3rd from the right)
4. Fixed Bandpass Filter (4th from the right)
5. Clock (5th from the right) - this one uses numitrons.
6. Empty module A - just a faceplate with 20 pots & 8 sockets
7. Empty Module B - faceplate with 22 pots & 10 sockets
8. Empty Module C - Current meter
9. Empty Module D - faceplate with 26 pots & a simple meter.
10. ??
11. Empty Double Module - 39 pots, 25 switches, 3 lamps.
6. Empty module A
Twenty pots & Eight 3.5mm sockets
Wonder what it was intended to be?
7. Empty Module B - faceplate with 22 pots & 10 sockets.
8. Empty Module C - Current meter
9. Empty Module D - faceplate with 26 pots & a simple meter.
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/06/arp-2500-nlc.html
Andrew of NLCs is working on some of the modules.
They will eventually be reunited. For the moment I thought it would be good to document the case in its current state.
Before this system arrived we had no idea what to expect.
Five of the DIY modules are just a panel with no PCB behind.
So far Andrew has identified (from right to left):
1. Reverb (extreme right) - the one with the big black dial.
2. Matrix mixer ??
3. DIY module - dunno - so far a mystery (3rd from the right)
4. Fixed Bandpass Filter (4th from the right)
5. Clock (5th from the right) - this one uses numitrons.
6. Empty module A - just a faceplate with 20 pots & 8 sockets
7. Empty Module B - faceplate with 22 pots & 10 sockets
8. Empty Module C - Current meter
9. Empty Module D - faceplate with 26 pots & a simple meter.
10. ??
11. Empty Double Module - 39 pots, 25 switches, 3 lamps.
6. Empty module A
Twenty pots & Eight 3.5mm sockets
Wonder what it was intended to be?
7. Empty Module B - faceplate with 22 pots & 10 sockets.
8. Empty Module C - Current meter
9. Empty Module D - faceplate with 26 pots & a simple meter.
10. Empty Double Module - 39 pots, 25 switches, 3 lamps.
This is a monster of a module.
I wonder what it was intended to be.
The pots seem fine, though most of the switches are Kaput.
If you the viewers have any suggestions as to what to turn these empty modules into please let me know.
This is going to be a long term labor of love.
Saturday, 16 January 2016
Korg Volca Beats - A Modding, Circuit bending & Hackers Guide
The Korg Volca Beats is an awesome drum machine which can only be made better with the help
of some mods and a bit of hacking. There are quite a few mods out there already so we (Cobramatic & I)
decided to have a go at ours. I'd particularly like to thank Instructables & Darren Glen.
I've placed links to all theirs ideas at the bottom of this post.
This blog posting covers the obvious improvements like the snare, adding midi & getting individual outs for each voice.Plus there is a bit of circuit bending. If you have discovered any new mods please let me know.
I'd be happy to put a link to your page in this post.
First remove the battery compartment, then detach the two PCBs from one another.
This is the top PCB board.
Notice the rather tiny SMD components.
You will need a magnifier, a good light and as fine a point tip as you can find, as well as very thin solder.
The mods are in the lower right corner.
Of course just opening this box will void your warranty. So only do this if you are confident you can solder onto SMD components.
This is a closeup of the first mod. It's replacing a missing capacitor.
This involves soldering a capacitor across these two points. I chose to solder leads first then attach the cap.
I used a 104 ceramic. ... 0.1 uF (5mm pitch)
Once you have done this it's a good idea to secure the leads with electrical tape or glue stick to the board. I found this out the hard way as after I was done I decided to try my hand at a bit of circuit bending and in doing so inadvertently undid all my work.
And a good bottle of Red will do wonders if you need extra help to steady your nerves.
Today I'm using a Taylors Red. This is a lovely 2001 drop from the Clare Valley of South Australia.
http://www.taylorswines.com.au/
Thus the second mod point was tried. This involves soldering a capacitor across a resistor.
I wanted to test if varying the capacitor size would affect the sound. Yes it does !!!
The interesting ones were 105 & 104s.
My idea was to use a SPDT switch to access both sounds.
From another angle.
At this point secure your leads with tape or glue.
Don't do as I did and leave them to float.
All these tests will put strain on your solder joints and lead to tears.
To make matters worse when the second mod failed the solder came off along with a resistor which now meant I have to replace both caps and at least one resistor. :-(
This is what I should have done from the beginning. Glue stick rules !!
These accidents happen for a reason. In accidently removing the resistor we were forced to test replacements. I decided to replace the 1k SMD resistor with a 100k linear pot.
Now its time to drill holes into the front panel and install switches, pots and the midi out socket.
This is the ideal drill for that midi socket. It reminds me of the "Mole" from Thunderbirds.
The panel is quite strange. It's metal over plastic
.Nice!
Next the Midi out jack:
Just 3 connections are required. These are labeled VD, GND and TX.
This gives a 16 step sequencer, which can trigger 10 sounds over MIDI, with adjustable tempo.
This pic is from Paul's drum which has a different mod - more circuit bending. However, the midi connections are no different from mine.
Next individual drum outs
Paul's mod is slightly different to mine and uses switches rather than pots to allow quicker swapping between sounds.
Useful Links.
+ Instructables
+ Darren Glen - Snare Mod hack
+ Circuit Surgeon
+ Utopian Labs - Midi Mod
+ Muffs - Cobramatic lament - My Mod BLEW UP!!!! – Please give me some love (A Novel)
+ Muffs - Volca Skiff
+ Muffs - Volca beats PSU for Euro
+ Muffs - Volca BeatsE
of some mods and a bit of hacking. There are quite a few mods out there already so we (Cobramatic & I)
decided to have a go at ours. I'd particularly like to thank Instructables & Darren Glen.
I've placed links to all theirs ideas at the bottom of this post.
Disclaimer
The actions described in this post will void your warranty and may damage your equipment. I take no responsibility for your soldering ability or actions.
This blog posting covers the obvious improvements like the snare, adding midi & getting individual outs for each voice.Plus there is a bit of circuit bending. If you have discovered any new mods please let me know.
I'd be happy to put a link to your page in this post.
First remove the battery compartment, then detach the two PCBs from one another.
This is the top PCB board.
Notice the rather tiny SMD components.
You will need a magnifier, a good light and as fine a point tip as you can find, as well as very thin solder.
The mods are in the lower right corner.
Of course just opening this box will void your warranty. So only do this if you are confident you can solder onto SMD components.
This is a closeup of the first mod. It's replacing a missing capacitor.
This involves soldering a capacitor across these two points. I chose to solder leads first then attach the cap.
I used a 104 ceramic. ... 0.1 uF (5mm pitch)
Once you have done this it's a good idea to secure the leads with electrical tape or glue stick to the board. I found this out the hard way as after I was done I decided to try my hand at a bit of circuit bending and in doing so inadvertently undid all my work.
And a good bottle of Red will do wonders if you need extra help to steady your nerves.
Today I'm using a Taylors Red. This is a lovely 2001 drop from the Clare Valley of South Australia.
http://www.taylorswines.com.au/
Thus the second mod point was tried. This involves soldering a capacitor across a resistor.
I wanted to test if varying the capacitor size would affect the sound. Yes it does !!!
The interesting ones were 105 & 104s.
My idea was to use a SPDT switch to access both sounds.
From another angle.
At this point secure your leads with tape or glue.
Don't do as I did and leave them to float.
All these tests will put strain on your solder joints and lead to tears.
To make matters worse when the second mod failed the solder came off along with a resistor which now meant I have to replace both caps and at least one resistor. :-(
This is what I should have done from the beginning. Glue stick rules !!
These accidents happen for a reason. In accidently removing the resistor we were forced to test replacements. I decided to replace the 1k SMD resistor with a 100k linear pot.
Now its time to drill holes into the front panel and install switches, pots and the midi out socket.
This is the ideal drill for that midi socket. It reminds me of the "Mole" from Thunderbirds.
The panel is quite strange. It's metal over plastic
.Nice!
Next the Midi out jack:
Just 3 connections are required. These are labeled VD, GND and TX.
This gives a 16 step sequencer, which can trigger 10 sounds over MIDI, with adjustable tempo.
This pic is from Paul's drum which has a different mod - more circuit bending. However, the midi connections are no different from mine.
Paul's mod is slightly different to mine and uses switches rather than pots to allow quicker swapping between sounds.
Useful Links.
+ Instructables
+ Darren Glen - Snare Mod hack
+ Circuit Surgeon
+ Utopian Labs - Midi Mod
+ Muffs - Cobramatic lament - My Mod BLEW UP!!!! – Please give me some love (A Novel)
+ Muffs - Volca Skiff
+ Muffs - Volca beats PSU for Euro
+ Muffs - Volca BeatsE
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