Sunday, 13 November 2016

Step Edit - Electribe 2 (blue/grey)

 This is the method for editing individual steps in a pattern.
These are a bit like the per step parameter locks you will find on devices like
Electron synths
 
There are 4 types of edit available:

1. STEP Number
2. Note
3. Gate
4. Velocity
 
To enter STEP EDIT mode press
Menu/enter
Use the <    > till you get to STEP EDIT 
STEP EDIT is 24/28
 
 -------------------------------------------------
1. STEP Number
This Selects the step that you'll edit.
Range : . [1.01... 4.16]
 
Either turn the main value knob 
or press the target step (the 1-4 buttons select the bar)

It will be displayed like so:

Step : 1 : 01

1= first bar
01= first step 
 
----------------------------------------
 
2. Note
Specifies the note number of the target step
Range: {C-1...G 09]
Default : C 04
 You can record up to four note numbers in each target step.
 
-------------------------------------
 
3. GATE TIME
 This is the length of each step. 
For example, if the gate time is "96," the duration of the note is exactly as long as a single step.
 
Range:  [ 00...96, TIE]
 
If you specify "TIE," 
the oscillator, EG, and modulation are not retriggered if the next step has the same note 

-----------------------
 
4. Velocity
This is the strength of a note.

Range: [001...127]
 
 
 
 
 





Friday, 4 November 2016

TM1637 4-digit 7-segment display

There are many different display modules that use a TM1637 IC from Titan MicroElectronics.
The color, size, dots, and connection points can vary widely, but as long as they use the TM1637,
 most should work.
 

A naked  4-digit 7-segment display will use 12 pins on your arduino.
The TM1637 cuts this down to 4.
 

The 4 connections are 
VCC 5V/3.3V
GND
CLK (clock)
DIO (Data I/O)

CLK & DIO are connected to any arduino digital pins.
It's your choice.
 
Each display is actually a collection of 7 LEDs
The individual segments are labelled A to G
By setting each LED to high or low, we can turn them on/off
 
The TM1637 module includes four 0.36 segment 7-segment displays.
 
You’ll need to use a library or two.
 
Which one depends on the type of module you have.
Avishay Orpaz has written a great library for TM1637 displays, the TM1637Display library.  
 These require this compiler directive to be placed in your code:
// Include the library
#include <TM1637Display.h>

I have another TM display that uses the Grove library

You need to put this into your code:

// include the grove.seeedstudio library 
#include <TM1637.h> 
 And then define the pins
 
// Define the connections pins
#define CLK 2
#define DIO 3
 
Next, we need the function  
TM1637Display()
or
 TM1637 tm(2, 3);

This function requires two parameters:
the CLK pin and the the DIO pin.
TM1637Display display = TM1637Display(CLK, DIO);
OR 
 TM1637 tm(2, 3);
The code depends on the type of display you have.
Before you buy it, research what library it needs. 

The main functions include:

  • setSegments() – Set the raw value of the segments of each digit
  • showNumberDec() – Display a decimal number
  • showNumberDecEx() – Display a decimal number with decimal points or colon
  • setBrightness() – Set the brightness of the display
  • clear() – Clear the display
 Here is a simple display sketch.
It's actually the basic example in the ARDUINO IDE. 
 
These TM1637 Driver examples work well.
They all use the 
#include <TM1637.h> 
//************************** 
 code 1
This refers to displays that use the  #include <TM1637.h> library
To set the brightness, pass in a value between 0-7 into tm.setBrightness(); 
tm.display(); will display a character on the display. 
You are restricted to just 4 characters. 
Simply type in any alpha-numeric characters you wish. 
 

//*******************
#include <TM1637.h>


// Instantiation and pins configurations
// Pin 3 - > DIO
// Pin 2 - > CLK
TM1637 tm(2, 3);

void setup()
{
    tm.begin();
    tm.setBrightness(4);
}

void loop()
{
    // Display Integers:
    tm.display(1234);
    delay(1000);

    // Display float:
    tm.display(29.65);
    delay(1000);

    // Display String:
    tm.display("PLAY");
    delay(1000);
    tm.display("STOP");
    delay(1000);
}
//*******************************************************
  
Links
+ https://www.makerguides.com/tm1637-arduino-tutorial/
+ https://www.instructables.com/Tutorial-How-to-4-Digit-Display-Interface-With-Ard/ 
+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W7tycX-F1o&t=64s 
+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6QoGsdHzfM
 
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Monday, 31 October 2016

Thursday, 27 October 2016

NLC BaDum TISS - drum module

These are my build notes for the nonlinearcircuits Badum TISS.
Badum Tisss is a snare/hi hat eurorack module.

 it mixes the sound from a VCO & noise circuit into a ring modulator.

The VCO is triggered with an envelope follower.
This EF also triggers a VCA further down the circuit.

Check out Andrews build notes for further info.
http://www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/BadumTisss%20build%20&%20BOM.pdf

Sneaky Nuts??? s this a reference to Angry Boys?

Anyway, where did the name Ba Dum Tiss originate ?

The Urban Dictionary defines badum tish as
 "an onomatopeia for a drum technique normally accompanying the conclusion of a cheesy joke or a comedy pratfall (where someone is made to look like an idiot by their own devising - such as falling on a banana skin they earlier discarded). It consists of two fast rimshots and a splash cymbal - producing the sound "badum tish".

Firstly, get those pesky SMD ICs out of the way:

Rest of SMD next.

Just 2 transistors:
one BC847 NPN (marked by the "n") & one BC 857 PNP (identified on the PCB by the "p")





Now for the through hole stuff.


I had to drill an extra hole in the panel to accommodate the LED

Sounds Great!
Thanks Andrew.
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You can find more NLC builds here.
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Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) - Kyoto, Japan

This is a Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Japan.
The golden pavillion is so beautiful. It's part of a larger complex of buildings set in the most
Japanese of Japanese gardens.
Address: 1 Kinkakujicho, Kita Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 603-8361, Japan
Kinkaku-ji is officially named Rokuon-ji.

The site dates from 1397. It started off a a villa but was converted to the Kinkaku-ji complex
by the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.

The Pavillion is very important to the Japanese. It is on the world heritage list and is
designated as a National Special Historic Site.

During the Onin war (1467–1477), all of the buildings in the complex aside from the pavilion were burned down. This golden pavillion remained in tact for nearly 500 years until 1950 when it was burned down by a 22-year-old novice monk,
 Hayashi Yoken, who then attempted suicide on the Daimon-ji hill behind the building.
 He survived and was jailed. He died of tuberculosis in 1955.
The temple has been rebuilt but one can only feel sadness for this lost of a national treasure and what pain it must have caused the Japanese People.



For more travel pics:
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/travel-postcards-index-my-travel.html

Tuesday, 25 October 2016

NLC Doof Drum Module - Build notes

These are my build notes for the Nonlinearcircuits Doof drum module.
It's Eurorack format.
This is a very different circuit from the 808 & 909 clones doing the rounds today.
Can't believe I would ever tire of those sounds but its great to have something different.
This circuit uses a trimmed down NLC dual OTA VCO and the VCA from the NLC matrix mixer
(a future build).

 I built the OTA VCO over a year ago.
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/nonlinear-circuits-dual-ota-vco-build.html
That VCO used a OTA or Operational transconductance amplifier.

The topology is common enough in many drum synths: Trigger circuit, envelope follower, VCO, VCA.

Get started with some tanning. It's the Aussie way.

Firstly the virgin PCBs & faceplate:


First get those !Cs in.
Now the rest of the SMDs
I'm using a 10K on the RL ... LED resistor
Stuff in the through hole stuff:
pOTS & jacks next.

Now the LED. Get the orientation right. The anode is the long lead.


initial tests:
Initially, with a headphone, I found the volume very low and the LED didn't light up.
The LED resistor I used was a 10K. This is for super bright LEDs.
I swapped it for a 1K and noticed a sudden increase in volume & that the LED lit up.
I decided to do another swap. This time for a 510 R.
Much much better !!!
Very loud and the LED lights up nicely thanks.
:-)
-------------------------------
Andrew F suggested that in order to get a bigger output, I change the 220k next to the TL072
He has taken it to 4M7 ...which is way OTT, ....bounces off the power rails.
Maybe a more sensible range would be between 1M5 & 2M2.

For the moment I'm really happy with the standard Doof module.
Other mods include
1.  CV control of decay instead of freq... see build & BOM pdf
http://www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/Doof_Build&BOM_vers1.pdf
2. replacing the 10nF capacitor on the input with a link to
create 808 style extended drum hits with gates rather than triggers.

Links:
1. NLC Build Notes
2. Muffs : adjusting output level of the Doof
3. NLC blog spot 
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You can find more NLC builds here.
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