KOLOR - Combining multiple LED tiles

 Some videos showing examples of how to combine mutiple LED tiles

Here is what the rear of the tiles looks like.

There are 3 connections ... 5V, Gnd and either DIN or DOUT

I'm just playing with the random settings on the KOLOR module.

It's Eurorack, from Elk Elektronik's in Australia.

Ed has been working on this for ages, and is releasing it on Kickstarter.

Ed describes it as a WS2812 LED Pixel Strip Controller for Eurorack.

It's compatible with multiple LED strips.

Control can be either manual (via the knobs) or CV patched into 6 jack inputs.

The controls are:

1. Red /hue

2. Green/saturation

3. Blue/value

4. width

5. pixel number

6. preset pattern

For more info visit:

https://www.elkelektronik.com.au/kolor

NLC - More (cowbell drum module) - Build notes

These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits "more" module.

It's a eurorack module.

This module contains three individual cowbell circuits based on those in the Roland TR-808.

Links

+ Wiki

+ BOM

As far as parts go there isn't anything rare or hard to find.

CD 40106 

& three Opamps - TL072

CD40106 (CMOS IC with 6 Schmitt trigger inverters)

The really cool thing about this circuit is that it uses a logic chip to make metallic noise

Each bell uses 2 of the 6 oscillators.

I think in the 808, similar circuits provide the basis for the cymbal & hi hat sounds

The original 808 used band pass filters to remove the upper and lower partials.

Andrew's description is as follows:

"The filters are fixed as per the original design. This means the output

is loudest when the oscillators are set close to the operating frequency

range of the filters and softer when the oscillators are at much higher

or lower settings. For me, this seems fine, but mess with the filter

values if you like. I have seen some mods of the 2k2 to ground resistor

varied to change the filter range. In proto-typing, this was

experimented with but I didn’t feel it was much improvement."

resistors next

Diodes: LL4148

These are the power protection voltage rectifiers... or just use a 10 ohm resistor and dont plug the module in backwards.

You'll need a through hole +5V 100mA voltage regulator : 78L05. 

power header

Transistors : BC857, 847

Six 1M pots.

12 sockets

The accent input is tied to the trigger input via the switch tab,

probably best to use a gate rather than a trigger to get the sound going,

but that depends on what you want to do. Otherwise patch whatever you

like to make things happen.

This is a dense but easy build.

More links

+ Hackaday

+ Roland TR-808 cowbell rebuild

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You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

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Gaggia Classic - list of models 1991 to 2024

 The Gaggia classic was first released back in 1991. It's a classic not really because it produces the best coffee out there. Rather, these were admired for their simplicity and practical engineering.

They are reliable, fixable, economic, durable.

The Classics had rocker switches that lasted forever, a small 80ml boiler with a big heating element (that heated up quickly) and a three way solenoid valve (instead of a spring valve).

The original classic  was made between 1991 and 2009 

(SIN035 RI9303)

The solenoid valve allows the water to gently enter the group head rather than hitting the puck with force.

There was also a OPV (over pressure valve) that was easy to tweak to get 9 bars of pressure.

Finally, it was easy to modify.... from changing the drip tray, and steam wand, to adding PIDs, flow controllers and microcontrollers.

Parts are cheap and easy to install.

They are built like tanks and if looked after will last a lifetime.

Gaggia was acquired in 1999 by the Italian firm Saeco .

The Gaggia production site was moved from Robecco sul Naviglio (Milan) to Romania & Gaggio Montano (Bologna) in 2007. 

The machine on the left is a 2003 model.

Montano was the location of Saeco's International HQ. Saeco didn't at this point change the Classic design. 

Still the same rocker switches with the larger steam switch in the middle. The lights are in the bottom of the switch.

The pre 2009 Gaggia classic logo is printed in black on the lower right corner.

The Romanian models are still pretty good.

But, in 2009, when Philips bought Seaco International the new management decided to alter the design and manufacture.

There are several Gaggia classic models that could be called the "old model"

but I think the true classics are pre-2009.

Machines made up until about 2009 have the sticker on the back

"Made in Milan" (Robecco s/N (Milano) or "Made in Italy" and these are what referred to as the "original classic".

The water tank is 2.1 litres.

Models between 2009 & 2014

SIN035 RI9303

This still has the solenoid valve.

The logo is raised, metallic.

The words "Classic" above "GAGGIA".

The classic 2015 - 2018 is the most controversial version. (SIN035U RI9403)

Also known as the Gaggia Classic V2

 It has modern push buttons in stead of the rocker switches. ...the push buttons tend to stick.

It doesn't have the 3 way solenoid valve.

It uses a stainless steel boiler instead of the traditional aluminum one

The logo is raised, metalic.

Gaggia above Classic

Lights are in the upper part of the switches

& there no discharge pipe into the drip tray.

Finally, you can't mod the steam wand.

In 2019, Gaggia returned to the old design with the Gaggia Classic Pro (SIN035R RI9380) & Gaggia Pro Eco (SIN035UR RI9480)

The rockers are a new design. Steam is now on the right.

The lights are not integrated into the switches.

The Eco version had a new Eco PCB .

This is a power saving 20min switch

Both models were manufactured between 2019 & 2022

(SIN035R RI9380)

It's manufactured in Italy, has a 3 way solenoid valve and the 

old small aluminum boiler.

The OPV (over pressure valve) can't be tweaked to 

adjust the pressure.

The steam wand was great out of the box, so no tweaking needed.

The On/off switch has a auto off.... not quite the same as the original.

Chrome plated brass group head & portafilter.

Gaggia Classic Evo Pro 2023

RI9481 (SIN035R) - 240V version

RI9380 (SIN035R) - 120V version

Externally, pretty much identical to the 2019 model

Solid brass group (instead of being chrome plated).

Solid stainless steel portafilter instead of chrome plated brass. 

Eco PCB 

9 Bar OPV

There is a new non-stick coating on the boiler.

Gaggia thought that the contact between uncoated brass group and aluminum boiler may lead to galvanic corrosion. 

However this has lead to some cases of "boiler Gate" where the coating started to flake off.

The boiler max capacity is 140ml, operating capacity is 105ml (3.5oz). The water reservoir holds 2.1l of water (72fl.oz)

Classic Evo Pro 2024

The aluminum boiler is now uncoated.

Gaggia Classic Pro E24.

RI9481 (SIN035R)

9 bar brewing, 3 way solenoid valve, high thermal mass components, 58mm portafilter, brass boiler and the ability to upgrade with precision filter baskets and other pro brewing accessories.

Being made of brass and with a higher capacity, the new boiler stores more heat, to guarantee a better temperature stability, an enhanced control and stability of steam pressure, and steam produced for longer.

Reports are the the new brass boiler can be added 

to older models.

Links

+ Auber mods

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6&sort=20a

+ My main Coffee Index Page:

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

   Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring

   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal & first tests

Rancilio Silvia - history

 The Rancilio Silvia is a well-regarded espresso machine known for its durability and performance. Over the years, Rancilio has released several versions and updates to this model. Here's a summary of the different versions (though officially Rancilio doesn't recognise these versions):

Rancilio Silvia V1 (Original):

Introduced in  1997.

Featured a basic design with a brass boiler & steam wand. The single 300ml boiler is used for both brewing and steaming. There is a small 2L water tank which feeds into the boiler. Uses a Ulka vibration pump.

The drip tray is a simple square design.

The logo of V1 has the words Silvia

Rancilio Silvia V2:

Introduced in 2000.

Improvements over the original model included a more durable stainless steel casing, better temperature stability, and enhanced ergonomics.

New drip tray

Logo has changed 

there were two OPV models.

Early: fixed OPV

Later: adjustable OPV

Both V1 & V2 used this steam knob

Rancilio Silvia V3:

Introduced around 2008.

Added improvements such as a redesigned steam wand, a more refined boiler temperature control, and a more user-friendly interface.

New steam valve knob. Partially chrome plated

New portafilter handle design.

New steam wand and steam nozzle.

Adjustable OPV

Brass boiler with a built in heating element.

Thus is you burn it up, you'll need to replace the whole boiler.

Rancilio Silvia V4:

2013.

The copper heating element was redesigned.

In the old models, the element was fixed.

There was now a removable element that screws from the inside of the brass boiler.

Rancilio Silvia V5:

2016.

Different lights on the on/off switch

They use LEDs.

Insulated boiler.

The heating element switches off after 30 mins

(to comply with new EU regulations).

Rancilio Silva V6 (E or M versions)

2020

Model No : HSD-SILVIA

Heating element :1100 W

Brass group head with Black group-head ring

2 L tank, 300ml insulated brass boiler

New screw in stainless steel element.

Version E - cut off timer

Version M - no cut off

Rancilio Silvia Pro:

Introduced in 2020.

This is a significant upgrade from previous models, featuring dual boilers (one for brewing and one for steaming), a built-in PID controller, and improved controls for a more professional-level performance.

These versions showcase the evolution of the Silvia over the years, with each iteration bringing enhancements in terms of build quality, temperature control, and user experience

Gaggiuino -part 5 - wiring

This is part five of my Gaggiuino project.

Basically this adds a microcontroller to a relatively cheap coffee machine.

The earlier parts are here:

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

At this point I'm just breaking down the wiring and reading the schematic.

I often find I absorb info better if I write things down. Thus this blog.

And hopefully, it will help someone else doing this awesome project.

I am not part of the Gaggiuino development team so there may be mistakes here.

Do let me know if you find any. 

I have a 240 V Gaggia classic pro evo

And I'm using an official PCB from Peak in HK

I bought the kit with lots of parts to get this job done (hopefully with little fuss).

Though, you will need more cables, basic soldering skills & some patience.

Peak Coffee:

https://www.peakcoffee.cc/product/gaggiuino-v3-kit-set-gaggia-classic-pro/

The official project page is here:

https://gaggiuino.github.io/#/?id=home

The discord page is also useful:

https://gaggiuino.github.io/#/community/community-media

There are two important pics you need to digest to wire things up.

The first time I saw the pic below I was at a loss to see where things started or ended.

I'm familiar with electronics schematics, but the mix with hardware is new for me.

But its actually not too bad once you study it, compare to the schemo and work out what the labels mean.

Remember you are playing around with high voltage (240VAC), low voltage DC and hot pressurised water.

So be very careful.

If you've got a different machine, things will be a bit different, but hopefully not by too much.

The code goes something like this :

G = ground

3WV = 3 way valve

the 3 way valve has 3 terminals.

3WV N

3WV L

3WV G

Socket N = 240V power Neutral socket

Socket G = 240V power Ground socket

Socket L = 240V power Line socket

The brass 57 solenoid has 3 flat spade connectors

G = Gnd

L = Line

N (blue) = neutral

keep in mind that there is a difference between high voltage & low voltage cables

(HV use Crimped 6.3mm Terminal Connectors, 30-50cm AWG 22 cables )

Here is the schematic. Try to unite this in your mind with the pic above.

.......................................

I think I'll start with the 240v socket
(these are the pink boxes).

These connect to Neutral, Line & Gnd.

Socket N = 240V power neutral socket (blue in the schematic)

Socket G = 240 power ground socket

Socket L = 240 line socket

These need to be the thickest gauge wire as they are carrying the highest current

-------------------------------------------------------

The Solenoid

The brass 57 solenoid has 3 flat spade connectors

Its also know as the 3 way valve in the schematic.

3WV = 3 way valve

the 3 way valve has 3 terminals.

3WV N = neutral (blue)

3WV L = line (yellow)

3WV G = gnd

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

these yellow boxed ends connect with the PCB

3-out ( to 3WV L)

P-out (to Pump L)

L-in (to the SSR)

N-in (to the pump fuse, pump N, etc)

all connect the PCB to the  outside world.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The vibratory pump

It looks like it has just 2 terminals (Pump Fuse to Pump N 

& Pump L).

These connect to N  & P on the PCB.

---------------------------------------------

grounding wires

All green wires.....   start at the 240V power socket (socket G) on the right

and work left  (frame - 3 way valve - boiler ) to end at the cup warming plate on the extreme left.

-----------------

The SSR (Solid state relay)

A solid state relay (SSR) is an electronic switching device that switches on or off when an external voltage (AC or DC) is applied across its control terminals. They serve the same function as an electromechanical relay, but solid-state electronics contain no moving parts and have a longer operational lifetime.

It has two sides.

A high voltage AC side and a low voltage DC side.

The AC side connects to the coffee heating elements. 

The DC side connects to the PCB.

It basically translates between the two.

Both sides are isolated (even though they can communicate with each other) using LEDs and phototransistors.

What the SSR does is listen to commands from the microcontroller. 

If the microcontroller sends low voltage digital info to the SSR (say

to heat up the water), the SSR will carry out the command on the high voltage AC end.

It looks like the left AC out from the SSR 

connects to the thermofuse, 

or the resettable fuse 

& one heating element

I don't think you connect it to both.

+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal

NLC - Tinkle (drum module) - Build notes

These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits "Tinkle" module.

Tinkle..... 4 channel preset drum module with a distortion circuit added on the summed output.

TINKLE & STOCHAOS 1

Links;

+ Wiki

+ BOM

I found the PCB you be very " tightly packed"... so use a soldering iron with a fine tip to avoid shorts.

The drums are based on the so called “Gamelan resonator” circuit developed by Paul DeMarinis in the early 70s for his Pygmy Gamelan device. 

They are quite simple but have a lovely gentle tone and are easily tunable using different capacitors and gain resistors. 

When building you can select capacitors to suit the pitches you want & different resistor values to vary the gain. 

It would be good to build a few of these to have some variations in pitch

The distortion circuit is fairly harsh but when the drums are feed high frequency clocks you can get some quite heavy sync’d riffs going.

Each drum sound has an output. The 4 sounds are summed together and

passed through the Razor circuit for a mixed output. Turn the pot to

minimum or max to turn off the Razor and get a clean summed signal. 

Parts

TL072 or TL082 4 Soic Tayda: A-1139

LM3900 1 Soic Mouser Part No: 595-LM3900DR .

LL4148 6 sod-80 Tayda: A-1213

--------------------

The 5V1 zeners limit the output of Razors to +/-5V, they do not

have to be installed.... order

Mouser have a lot of 5V1 zeners in stock, some numbers are

78-BZT55C5V1-GS18 or 78-BZT55C5V1 or 78-TZMC5.1

Tayda have a sod-80 5V6 zener which is close enough - A-6014

I'm using a VISHAY TZM5232B-GS08 from Tayda (X-4504)

Zener Single Diode, 5.6 V, 500 mW, SOD-80 (MiniMELF), 2 Pins, 175 °C, Surface Mount

There are 2 x 33K resistor marked..... replace these with10K

 

.

When building you can select capacitors to suit the pitches you want,

also need to select a resistor value to vary the gain. Some suggested

values are listed below, but feel free to experiment.

Each Gamelan circuit uses 3 caps & 1 resistor.

There are 4 of these circuits.

For comparison, Andrew has also included a pic of a Twin-T & bridged-T circuit.

These 3 circuits are resistor-capacitor networks which are placed in the feedback loop of an op-amp.

Twin-T Oscillators (sometimes known as parallel-T oscillators) are RC (resistor-capacitor) oscillators which produce a sinewave output .

Andrew built a Twin-T  (BongO) drum module many years ago which you might like to check out.

Bong0 - Bongo - Drum / VCO build notes

The Bridge-T oscillator is an even simpler form of RC network.

It's based on a bridge-T notched filter that is placed in the feedback loop of an op-amp, 

changing it from a notch to a bandpass filter.

The Roland TR 808 bass drum circuit is based around a bridged-T network oscillator.

-----------------------------------------

All the capacitors in the build, should be the same value for each Cx and Rx sets

the gain for that section.

For example, use three 2n2 capacitors for the three C1 pads and solder

200k into R1.

Cx   Rx

1n5 180k higher tone

2n2 200k

3n3 220k

4n7 220k

10n 200k

15n 390k

22n 510k

33n 680k lower tone

I think I'll mix things up

Gamelan 1 4n7 220k

Gamelan 2 10n 200k

Gamelan 3 22n 510k

Gamelan 4 33n 680k

It would be good to experiment with this values.

I reckon it would be fun to build a few of these 

modules with other combos.

I prefer the higher frequencies.

Each drum sound has an output. The 4 sounds are summed together and

passed through the Razor circuit for a mixed output. Turn the pot to

minimum or max to turn off the Razor and get a clean summed signal. 

The Razor is an unusual distortion circuit employing unbalanced comparators

to produce pulses that are mixed with the original signal. 

The Razor can be used as a separate module. Patching a signal into the input

disconnects the summed Tinkle signal.

.

final caps 7 resistors.

S1JL, Schottky, power

rectifier or 10R

Im using a 10R resistor

LL4148

headers to connect the 2 PCBs, & eurorack 10 pin power connector.

10 sockets, 1 x B100k pot

Pair this with a VCA/EG

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You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

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