Wednesday, 20 March 2024

Faema Faemina 1964

 Some pics and initial brew notes  for a New- old 1964 Faema.


This just arrived and I'm so excited to learn how to use this piece of art.


The Faema Faemina is a classic espresso machine that was first introduced 
by the Italian company FAEMA (Fabbrica Apparecchiature Elettromeccaniche e Affini). 


Unlike many commercial espresso machines of the time, the Faemina was designed to be smaller and more suitable for home use, making it a popular choice among coffee enthusiasts. However, it's really heavy. Made of brass, it weighs 11K.
It is a significant piece of espresso culture, representing the transition of espresso machines from commercial settings to the home kitchen.



The machine operates with a manual spring-lever system, 
allowing users to control the extraction pressure and time. 

 


She has a single boiler system, designed to heat water for both brewing and steaming milk.
Uses a 51mm basket ... similar to a post mil La pavoni.





























Side on view

















The spring, through the sight glass.
Very cool.

The spring, gives this machine more consistency over a purely manual lever machine like the Europiccola.

I like that I can step away briefly with a spring load machine during a pull vs fully manual Europiccola.











inside - heating elements
There are 2 - one for 200W, the second for 800W.












This is the water entrance point from the boiler , into the grouphead.












First Pull .... will need practice.
The Faemina operates on the hotter side, and so can be a bit more challenging with darker roasts, 
and if you're pulling multiple shots.


The on/off switch. 
This is the On position on my model.
I think on most models, red is on. ?



Overheating on faemina is not an issue if you calibrate and attach a pressurestat (easy to do by hooking up pressure gauge on steam wand) and then make use of the 200W element.

The Faemina needs a special tool for spring changing but most parts are available for it. You cannot leave the Faemina on as long as it has no p-stat.
Instead it constantly emits steam from the pressure relief valve. 
Pressure is maintained but it slowly loses water. 
This is why there is a high-low switch,...
.... the high is for heating up the machine and low is for just keeping the machine up to pressure.


So you can control the temp by adjusting the settable pressure release valve to desired pressure and then practicing when to cycle low / high or turn off / on machine. 
This adjustable pressure regulator.
It consists o f a ballbearing, spring & adjustable screw.
The further in you insert the screw, the higher the pressure the steamer starts to leak.
Having a temp strip or electronic group temp device greatly aids here.

The machine is I think very temp stable once desired temp is achieved due to mass of brass group and boiler.  
I do occasionally retard the pull on second or third pulls on the Faemina by adding tension to lever.

Brew notes:
I boil the water with the switch set to the MAX position.
(Takes about 6-7 mins with the switch set to high, or about 20 mins if its low)
When the OPV located on the lid begins to exit steam, put the switch to the MIN position .
Usually I pull shots with the high element off.
This helps to prevent overheating of the group, esp if you are pulling multiple shots.
I aim to get the group head to about 80-85C.
(use a temp strip or electric thermometer).

Tamp then use a puck-screen or aeropress filter paper.
(The Faemina has a viscous flow rate... the water really gushes out)
15g in, about 35g out.
10-20 sec  pre-infusion.
Double pull takes about 45 secs.

----------------------------
This morning I let it heat to 82C (boiler temp) at the MAX switch position.
At about 80-85C the spring OPV kicks into action and Faemina starts to whistle. 
Then I switched to MIN (which settles the valve) and let the Faemina coast up to 90C . 
at which point I pulled a shot .
15g in, 30 out. 10 sec preinfusion, 35 sec total.

I'll play around with more variations. 
------------------------------
I'm enjoying the coffee and it seems to be getting better as I stumble forward.




Thursday, 14 March 2024

Arrarex - Caravel, VAM - Lever Espresso Machine

 The caravel, a light sailing ship of the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries in Europe, much-used by the Spanish and Portuguese for long voyages. 



Apparently developed by the Portuguese for exploring the coast of Africa, the caravel's chief excellence lay in its capacity for sailing to windward.

This is the emblem for the Arrarex Caravel lever coffee machine.

Mine is a V1.0 from the early 1960's.

They're wonderfully simple machines, and the disassembly and reassembly process is a joy. The basic components are a heating element/ boiler, a group, and a piston which is driven with a lever (and your biceps).

Tamper Diameter: 42mm

This machine's piston is totally manual (no spring) such as you will find in a La Pavoni Europiccola

Links



























A masterpiece of design.
I love collecting these old Italian coffee machines.
They look great, and give me such pleasure every morning.


This machine was the first with temperature control.
The thermotat at the rear really pushed the boundaries of home espresso.
...

..

The elegance of the tamper .
Tamper Diameter: 42mm



This machine does not have a closed, pressurized boiler.
It's often referred to as a open boiler.
It's basically a kettle without a airtight-sealed lid.
This has the advantage of stable temperatures, but they can't produce steam (so no cappuccinos).



Italian 3 prong plug.


Wednesday, 13 March 2024

NLC - LDRama - build notes

 These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits LDRama module.
tHIS eurorack 28HP light sensor module  was designed upon suggestions from Alex Brunori. 
The idea is to play a video (or skype or whatever is the newest thing) fullscreen on your phone and place the phone on the LDR array. The module will generate CVs in response to what is happening in your video.

I've got a Arduino controlled LED project in the works, and I'd like to see if I can do something interesting with the two.

links
+ BOM

I think this is a pretty neat idea.
It is designed to suit a typical 5x2 inch screen, larger screens work fine tho some info around the edges is lost. Ideally the module will sit flat, if on an angle patch-cords into the top row of jacks hold it up very nicely


You can also patch in an external signal, such as a CV from a sequencer, and process this thru the LDRs.


The BOM suggests using GL12528 LDRs x 48


get the opamps on first.
TL072 x 15


















resistors next.
lots of 1k and 100k




These 8 resistors marked 100k should all be 1k
The RL and 1k should be swapped
2k2 resistors for RL












I'm using a 10R resistor for reverse
voltage protection


The LDRs are larger than the usual
You need 48 x GL12528
on order from ebay

to be continued.....
Part 2:

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You can find more NLC builds here.
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Monday, 11 March 2024

Coffee

This is my index for all coffee related stuff.
I'm mainly interested on Coffee Lever Espresso machines.
These I think  are most closely related to analog.

Coffee
Dialing in Coffee  - Dose, ratio, Grind size & Time
+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino
   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB
   Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring
   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal & first tests
La Pavoni OPV and pressure stat maintenance

Sunday, 10 March 2024

NLC Stochaos - Build notes

These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits "stochaos" module.
It's a 8hp eurorack.


STOCHAOS...... It's a random rhythm pattern generator or sequencer which produces gates and control voltages 














There are just two inputs ; IN & RST
Everything else is an output


Links


This is a decent sized build using 2 PCBs
Start with the ICs and transistors.

The module uses a lot of cmos
CD4070  x2....... XOR
CD4040 x2  .... clock divider 



CD4040 clock divider's outputs feed the four binary inputs of a CD4028 BCD to Decimal converting chip, creating pseudo-random sequences, depending on different CD4040 outputs feeding different CD4028 BCD inputs.


"The circuit can be easily modified by replacing the two 4070 XOR chips with two 4081 AND chips (or any other 4 channel two input logic chip – OR, NAND, XNOR, NOR). I might Build both versions ....the one-gate-at-a-time version tends to get a much faster clock signal" (Andrew F). 




CD 40175... Quad D-type Flip-Flop















CD 4028....... BCD-to-decimal Decoder






























Resistors

Pink noise level :
*** 1M-10M? x 1 ........................select for pink noise level .
................ im using a 10M

RL (LED resistor)  x 9 ..............select resistor to suit LED
brightness (prob 4k7 to 10k) ..... im using 4.7K



....
power rectifier BAT54GWX


Diodes
LL4148

5mm LED for chaos circuit on top PCB, any
crappy LED is fine but high V-on is
good so a blue one if you have it.

headers to unite the two PCBs





















switch

SPDT - 
on-off-on














Jacks

3mm LEDs x 8 ....Up to you, diffused lens are easier
on the eyes. Square hole = anode 


I always do these last.

You're there


First tests.
The LEDs light up. That's promising.



the input needs a SAW or SQUARE wave 
Sine & Tri waves don't trigger the module very well.

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You can find more NLC builds here.
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Friday, 8 March 2024

certified italian espresso and cappuccino

 What are the most important technical parameters to make a Certified Italian Espresso?
The Italians invented this style back in 1947. Achille Gaggia was the first to come up with this style when he invented his Leva espresso machine.

According to the official Italian governing body these are the criteria:

Necessary portion of ground coffee : 7 g ± 0,5
Exit temperature of water from the unit : 88°C ± 2°C
Temperature of the drink in the cup : 67°C ± 3°C
Entry water pressure : 9 bar ± 1
Percolation time : 25 seconds ± 5 seconds
Viscosity at 45°C:  > 1,5 mPa s
Total fat:  > 2 mg/ml
Caffeine:  < 100 mg/cup
Millilitres in the cup (including froth) 25 ml ± 2,5


For a Cappuccino:
It is made of 25 ml espresso and 100 ml steam-foamed milk.

The milk used for Certified Italian Cappuccino shall be fresh
cow milk and have 3.2% minimum protein content
and 3.5 % minimum fats


Thursday, 7 March 2024

PID temperature controllers for coffee

What's a PID?

PID stands for Proportional-Integral-Derivative.

A PID controller uses a algorithm to determine the best way to control a process. 
They are used in a wide range of industrial applications but in our case, it usually controls temperature 

A traditional espresso machine uses a thermostat which once it hits a desired temperature turns off the heating element.

Below is a example of a  Arduino-based PID temperature controller for a La Pavoni espresso machine.
These old machines don't have thermostats. Temp surfing is their forte.

Links


.....

Links

video 2
...





How PID works

PID controlled soldering iron


Saturday, 2 March 2024

CMOSC - Drone Oscillator - Build notes - Nonlinear Circuits

These are my build notes for the Nonlinear Circuits CMOSC module
Its a eurorack format module.

CMOSC is an updated version of the 
4U CMOSC (CMOS drone Oscillator). 

Each module has 6 oscillators; the frequency of each
oscillator can be set with the pots. Feeding a signal to 
input will decide which oscillator signal will appear at the output. If the signal is low, oscillator A is heard, if the 
signal is high oscillator B is heard. 
This module gets very interesting when the outputs of each oscillator pair are fed into other pairs, which are themselves controlled by others and so on…..complex, evolving drones. Put
patchcords into every jack so every pair is controlled by another pair, listen to one of the outputs, twiddle the knobs until you feel satisfied.
The sync input actually disables the oscillators, the unmarked output is a sync output…or if you like; it goes high when the oscillators are disabled. It is most interesting to put an audio signal into the sync input, preferably from the other CMOSC module




The Eurorack CMOSC also  consists of 6 oscillators. 

each can be switched between two frequencies set by a single pot. When the pot is in the mid-point the two frequencies are about the same. Turn the pot to min or max to switch between higher and lower frequencies, or lower and higher. 














It's a gated oscillator.
Meaning  Each oscillator controls the switching of its subsequent neighbour
 (1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, 5-6, 6-1) via the switching pins of the input jacks. 
Patching in a signal will break this cacophony and allow you to have some control over proceedings.

Links
+ BOM







No hard to find parts



A single atom deprived of vibration could wreck the universe.
William Walker Atkinson

---------------------------------------------------

"there's only so much you can do with a op amp "... Paul S

CD40106 1 soic Mouser: 595-CD40106BM96 or 771-HEF40106BTD-T



CD4053 2 soic Mouser Part No: 595-CD4053BM96 or 771-HEF4053BTD-T



TL074 or TL084 2 Soic Tayda: A-1140 or A-1137


LL4148 x 7 sod-80 Tayda: A-1213
BC847 x6 SOT23-3 Tayda: A-1339 
Resistors: 1k, 10k, 100k, 220K



The two 5V1 Zeners (SOD80) are optional...
The function of these 2 zeners is to keep the output of the summed stage to 
exact Eurorack …ahem…‘standards’.
The individual outputs generally swing between +/-5V (so 10Vp-p) anyway, which is pretty much
within the "standard range so I don't think I'll need them.
(The pads for the 5V1 zeners are there if I change my mind).
The summed out is very noisy and raw.



I'm using a VISHAY TZM5232B-GS08 from Tayda (X-4504) instead of the 5.1V
Zener Single Diode, 5.6 V, 500 mW, SOD-80 (MiniMELF), 2 Pins, 175 °C, Surface Mount
I'm hoping this will be enough.





I'm using a 10R instead of the Schottky (for the rectifier).
Just don't plug the power supply in backwards. 

caps
C1-C6 set the frequency range for each oscillator. 470nF gets down
to approx. 15Hz, so is probably the highest value you want to use
(assuming you want to keep things in the audio range). 
Andrew says its OK to mix values or keep them all the same.
I've decided to use all 470nF. Ill see how this sounds, then might experiment later.

*** I started to experiment with these caps. Changed C1 , C2, C3, C4 to 220nf.
      the drone was more audible*****


The other caps are 10uf and 100nF


Soldering the headers that join the two PCBs.

Pots & jacks.


You're done 




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You can find more NLC builds here.
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