Monday 13 May 2024

Kolor - New Eurorack module from Elk Elektronik

 I'm so excited to see this new module .

KOLOR has been specifically designed to convert Eurorack CV signals into a format suitable for driving RGD LED pixel strips.


Elk Elektronik will launch this via kickstarter



What's WS2811/12?

Here is a link to LED matrices, etc:


Saturday 20 April 2024

Allinaire Korg PS3200 (PS3300 Emulation MAM RS3 Res) MS50 MS20 MS10 VC10...

..

As a huge Korg fan I got to put together an Ensemble piece using 1978 era Korg Synths. The hero is the mighty PS3200 polyphonic synth playing homage to its big brother (and, as of 2024, soon to be re-released by Korg, the PS3300) by using the direct out of the 3200 into a MAM RS3 Resonator which recreates the famous PS3300 & 3100 modulated resonator circuit. The 3200 plays pads, base and noises. 
Lead lines and extra pads via an MS20 into a VC10 Vocoder combo give a haunting breathy sound. 
The SQ10 Sequencer drives the MS50 and MS20 synths for a rhythmic sequence and the MS10 with its famous pulse width modulation provides additional baselines. 
Effects include the SE500 Tape Echo and the more modern Kaos Pad Mini. 
All recorded on a Zoom R24 recorder. 
Percussion utilises some sounds sampled from the various Korg Synths and is added in Ableton Live. 

Recorded in April 2024, Wollongong courtesy of Jondent, with some additional sounds from my own original MS20 in Sydney. 

The Video is mixed together bits of footage from the session but missed most of the playing and modulation action - but still it’s always nice to see some vintage Korg gear in action! 

Additional notes: Some subtle detuning of the PS3200 individual notes was made possible via the Temperament Adjust mini pots. The PS3010 keyboard also provides for some interesting modulation effects via the joystick and the unique note triggering control. A Korg 3100 in the same studio verified the RS3 Resonator accuracy and the RS3 unit also is CV controllable like on the 3300. By using it with the PS3200 (which has 2 oscillators per note) it gets close to the functionality of a PS3300 but of course misses the fact that the 3300 has 3 Oscillators and 3 resonators etc. I look forward to the new PS3300FS announced by Korg at NAMM 2024.

Monday 8 April 2024

Circuitbenders CB55 - drum machine build notes.

These are my build notes for the circuit benders clone of the Roland/- Boss Dr 55 drum.
The clone is called the CB-55.
The original is a really simple and great sounding machine. It's definitely a classic.
I think where it falls short is it's limited sequencer, and that its tricky to sync to external gear. 
I loved the first DR-55 I bought so much, that I purchased a second one with the intention to mod it.
But I just couldn't vandalize  it .
Mods to overcome this are out there but I think its a shame to need to mod vintage gear. 
These relics are getting harder to find as the years go by and in the future, the ones that will
retain their value will be those in original condition.

So from a practical level, get an original to admire & treasure and build the clone to 
mod to your hearts content.


Links:


I'll install the trigger conditioning circuit.... connected to TRIG_IN1 connector.
This allows you to connect 5V triggers that last longer than 10ms





The build looks easy. all through hole with standard parts that i probably already have in my store.


Resistors first.

Caps 


fairly straight forward build so far.

D1 1N4001 Rectifier diode
D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, D7, D8, D9 1N4148 or 1N914
D1 is a larger 1N4001
rectifier diode that provides polarity protection for the power input, but all the others can be general purpose
small signal diodes such as 1N4148's or 1N914'




Jumper wires:
The jumper wires at J3-J7 connect the output of each voice circuit to the main mix bus.
These links are designed as 
jumpers for easy mods to provide individual outputs, but at this point it would probably be better to just install 
them. You can always change things at a later date.


the voltage regulators and transistors. 

REG1 is a 78L06 regulator that supplies the 6v power to the 
voice circuits. REG2 is a 78L09 that supplies 9v to the trigger conditioning circuit
ebay ... ordered



There is just one IC
IC1 - LM324 Quad opamp



T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10 2SC945 Or similar transistor
Its a  Bipolar (BJT)

"T1 to T10 are general purpose NPN transistors. Roland/Boss used 2SC945's is virtually everything they produced 
during this era, so this is what we've specified here, but you could probably get away with using any number of 
transistors with similar specs. We haven't actually tried it, but we would imagine it'd also work fine with the 
common 2N3904 or 2SC1815"

I'll use 2n3904s

-----------------------------

Q1 in the accent circuit should be a JFET transistor with a DSG pinout. A few different types will fit here. We've
tried the J201, MPF102 and 2N5457, and they all seem to work okay.

Ordered ... ebay

------------------------
L1 --- 47mH inductor Original DR55 uses 45mH **
mouser







Friday 5 April 2024

Elektra MicroCasa Leva - brewing notes

 Some notes using the Elektra MCAL

The importance and inter relationship of grind, beans, roast, proper dosing, brew temperature, tamp pressure & pre-infusion can't be underestimated.
Plus the famous single or double Fellini pull.
Timing, tactile feedback, and close observation are critical.

I'm progressing towards a finer and lighter tamp.
A trick is to place a 5cent coin on top of the puck and lock it in. Then unlock. If the coin makes an indentation in the puck then you are over dosing. When I followed this rule, my Elektra shots improved dramatically.
also...
The tamper size is officially 49mm but my tamper is a bit loose. So I tried to thicken the walls a bit by adding clingwrap. ... fills it out to just under 49.5mm. I think the fit is much improved.

The other variable is temperature.
A unique feature of the Elektra Microcasa Leva is its very large group head. It is a effective heatsink. When water first hits the puck, its very hot, but this temp decreases quickly thanks to the group acting like a heatsink.
On the Elektra, if you get the group head to about 80c, keeping the boiler pressure at an average of 1 to 1.25 bars, then the water in the group head should be around 90-95C.





The pic above shows a cold Elektra with two thermometers: 
One measures the outside temp of the group head.
The second, the temp in the puck. 


It takes about 45 to 50 mins for the group head to reach 80C. 
(you can speed this by running some water through the group as its heating up).
I have a teflon boiler to grouphead gasket  that isolates the two (temperature wise). This slows down the initial heating, but improves temperature stability.
This gasket is I think necessary on Microcasa a Leva and Semiautomatica machines made before 1997. 
My machine dates from 1992.
Many thanks to Castorin8 for this and the thermometers











It seems like the outside group head temperature's sweet spot
is 80C. Once you reach that temp, after pulling the first shot, the brew temp will rise quickly past 94C to over 100C which of course isn't what we want. 

The pic on the left is before the first pull.









About to do a second pull. 
Group head temp is 85.7C and the brew temp is 94.6
Third Pull
Group head temp is 89.5C and the brew temp is 101.3C
Way too hot.











If you're planning on pulling more than 3 shots, I think some sort of extra
thermal management is needed. 
Maybe use a heatsink or just turn the machine off and let it cool to below 80C
before doing a second shot. 77C seems to work nicely.

Essentially, the shot now becomes a three-step process:
1) low-pressure pre-infusion with the lever held down, and water slowly entering the puck
2) Moderate-pressure infusion with the lever slowly rising, the puck flooding with water and expanding
3) Full-pressure extraction with the water flowing at the correct rate and temperature through the puck

Basic Fellini Method:
Hold pre-infusion until the first drops have appeared, then gently allow the lever to rise until the liquid emerging isn't just dark and viscous, but has a few crema bubbles.
Then briskly lower the lever, hold it down for 3 seconds to allow the water and puck to stabilize - and finally, release the lever, allowing the shot to complete.

--------------------

Double shot

Aim ...14g in 28-30g out? (30mls)  in 25-30 secs
 experiment with the grind size use a coarser grind? 

Method:
1. Pre-infusion - Hold the lever down. Water is now slowly entering the puck.
    This should last 6-8secs
2. Release lever  when you see the 1st drops starting to appear in your cup.
     If the grind is right , this should occur after the initial 6-8 sec pre-infusion stage.
3. The lever should be travelling up to its starting point by itself.
    If everything is going well it should reach the top at the end of 25-30 secs.

-------------------------

Single shot

7 g coffee in a single (Elektra) basket. The pull was around 25 sec to make about 25g ... 
about 30ml = 1oz  ... 
ratio is about 1:4 ?
This makes a half espresso cup and is fine to my taste. 
I get two to three sips.

One gets great shots from single pulls and single baskets as opposed to the accepted preference for double baskets and double pulls. 

Wednesday 20 March 2024

Faema Faemina 1964

 Some pics and initial brew notes  for a New- old 1964 Faema.


This just arrived and I'm so excited to learn how to use this piece of art.


The Faema Faemina is a classic espresso machine that was first introduced 
by the Italian company FAEMA (Fabbrica Apparecchiature Elettromeccaniche e Affini). 


Unlike many commercial espresso machines of the time, the Faemina was designed to be smaller and more suitable for home use, making it a popular choice among coffee enthusiasts. However, it's really heavy. Made of brass, it weighs 11K.
It is a significant piece of espresso culture, representing the transition of espresso machines from commercial settings to the home kitchen.



The machine operates with a manual spring-lever system, 
allowing users to control the extraction pressure and time. 

 


She has a single boiler system, designed to heat water for both brewing and steaming milk.
Uses a 51mm basket ... similar to a post mil La pavoni.





























Side on view

















The spring, through the sight glass.
Very cool.

The spring, gives this machine more consistency over a purely manual lever machine like the Europiccola.

I like that I can step away briefly with a spring load machine during a pull vs fully manual Europiccola.











inside - heating elements
There are 2 - one for 200W, the second for 800W.












This is the water entrance point from the boiler , into the grouphead.












First Pull .... will need practice.
The Faemina operates on the hotter side, and so can be a bit more challenging with darker roasts, 
and if you're pulling multiple shots.


The on/off switch. 
This is the On position on my model.
I think on most models, red is on. ?



Overheating on faemina is not an issue if you calibrate and attach a pressurestat (easy to do by hooking up pressure gauge on steam wand) and then make use of the 200W element.

The Faemina needs a special tool for spring changing but most parts are available for it. You cannot leave the Faemina on as long as it has no p-stat.
Instead it constantly emits steam from the pressure relief valve. 
Pressure is maintained but it slowly loses water. 
This is why there is a high-low switch,...
.... the high is for heating up the machine and low is for just keeping the machine up to pressure.

So you can control the temp by adjusting the settable pressure release valve to desired pressure and then practicing when to cycle low / high or turn off / on machine. 
Having a temp strip or electronic group temp device greatly aids here.

The machine is I think very temp stable once desired temp is achieved due to mass of brass group and boiler.  
I do occasionally retard the pull on second or third pulls on the Faemina by adding tension to lever.

Brew notes:
I boil the water with the switch set to the MAX position.
When the OPV located on the lid begins to exit steam, put the switch to the MIN position .
Usually I pull shots with the high element off.
This helps to prevent overheating of the group, esp if you are pulling multiple shots.
I aim to get the group head to about 80-85C.
(use a temp strip or electric thermometer).

Tamp then use a puck-screen or aeropress filter paper.
(The Faemina has a viscous flow rate... the water really gushes out)
15g in, about 35g out.
10-20 sec  pre-infusion.
Double pull takes about 45 secs.


I'm enjoying the coffee and it seems to be getting better as I stumble forward.




Thursday 14 March 2024

Arrarex - Caravel, VAM - Lever Espresso Machine

 The caravel, a light sailing ship of the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries in Europe, much-used by the Spanish and Portuguese for long voyages. 



Apparently developed by the Portuguese for exploring the coast of Africa, the caravel's chief excellence lay in its capacity for sailing to windward.

This is the emblem for the Arrarex Caravel lever coffee machine.

Mine is a V1.0 from the early 1960's.

They're wonderfully simple machines, and the disassembly and reassembly process is a joy. The basic components are a heating element/ boiler, a group, and a piston which is driven with a lever (and your biceps).

Tamper Diameter: 42mm

This machine's piston is totally manual (no spring) such as you will find in a La Pavoni Europiccola

Links



























A masterpiece of design.
I love collecting these old Italian coffee machines.
They look great, and give me such pleasure every morning.


This machine was the first with temperature control.
The thermotat at the rear really pushed the boundaries of home espresso.
...

..

The elegance of the tamper .
Tamper Diameter: 42mm



This machine does not have a closed, pressurized boiler.
It's often referred to as a open boiler.
It's basically a kettle without a airtight-sealed lid.
This has the advantage of stable temperatures, but they can't produce steam (so no cappuccinos).



Italian 3 prong plug.


Wednesday 13 March 2024

NLC - LDRama - build notes

 These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits LDRama module.
tHIS eurorack 28HP light sensor module  was designed upon suggestions from Alex Brunori. 
The idea is to play a video (or skype or whatever is the newest thing) fullscreen on your phone and place the phone on the LDR array. The module will generate CVs in response to what is happening in your video.

I've got a Arduino controlled LED project in the works, and I'd like to see if I can do something interesting with the two.

links
+ BOM

I think this is a pretty neat idea.
It is designed to suit a typical 5x2 inch screen, larger screens work fine tho some info around the edges is lost. Ideally the module will sit flat, if on an angle patch-cords into the top row of jacks hold it up very nicely


You can also patch in an external signal, such as a CV from a sequencer, and process this thru the LDRs.


The BOM suggests using GL12528 LDRs x 48


get the opamps on first.
TL072 x 15


















resistors next.
lots of 1k and 100k




These 8 resistors marked 100k should all be 1k
The RL and 1k should be swapped
2k2 resistors for RL












I'm using a 10R resistor for reverse
voltage protection


The LDRs are larger than the usual
You need 48 x GL12528
on order from ebay

to be continued.....

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Sunday 10 March 2024

NLC Stochaos - Build notes

These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits "stochaos" module.
It's a 8hp eurorack.


STOCHAOS...... It's a random rhythm pattern generator or sequencer which produces gates and control voltages 














There are just two inputs ; IN & RST
Everything else is an output


Links


This is a decent sized build using 2 PCBs
Start with the ICs and transistors.

The module uses a lot of cmos
CD4070  x2....... XOR
CD4040 x2  .... clock divider 



CD4040 clock divider's outputs feed the four binary inputs of a CD4028 BCD to Decimal converting chip, creating pseudo-random sequences, depending on different CD4040 outputs feeding different CD4028 BCD inputs.


"The circuit can be easily modified by replacing the two 4070 XOR chips with two 4081 AND chips (or any other 4 channel two input logic chip – OR, NAND, XNOR, NOR). I might Build both versions ....the one-gate-at-a-time version tends to get a much faster clock signal" (Andrew F). 




CD 40175... Quad D-type Flip-Flop















CD 4028....... BCD-to-decimal Decoder






























Resistors

Pink noise level :
*** 1M-10M? x 1 ........................select for pink noise level .
................ im using a 10M

RL (LED resistor)  x 9 ..............select resistor to suit LED
brightness (prob 4k7 to 10k) ..... im using 4.7K



....
power rectifier BAT54GWX


Diodes
LL4148

5mm LED for chaos circuit on top PCB, any
crappy LED is fine but high V-on is
good so a blue one if you have it.

headers to unite the two PCBs





















switch

SPDT - 
on-off-on














Jacks

3mm LEDs x 8 ....Up to you, diffused lens are easier
on the eyes. Square hole = anode 


I always do these last.

You're there


First tests.
The LEDs light up. That's promising.



the input needs a SAW or SQUARE wave 
Sine & Tri waves don't trigger the module very well.

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