These are my personal build notes for building the Gaggiuino espresso machine.
I'm not a part of the Gaggiuino team.
Thanks to zer0-bit and the discord community for making this possible.
Part 1 is here:
The build might change as I work through the various issues which will obviously happen.
I'll update as I go along.
Gaggiuino Project Page
Discord;
facebook:
Every build is different.
There are so many versions of the Gaggia classic machine.
So each build will vary depending on the model, and the mods you wish to add.
They started making the Classics in 1991. Do you buy and old or new one?
2024 Gaggia Classic Evo Pro.
Model number: (SIN035UR) RI9481/12.
It's got a lovely brass group head, and stainless shower screen.
This machine (I think) has a Eco board which complicates the build a bit.
The wiki recommends you do a Power switch mod & disable the eco board as it apparently doesn't play well with the Gaggiuino. This could be a decider when choosing what model to buy.
Anyway, I've got this machine, so I'll have to push on.
This eco board is the logic board for a timer that powers off the machine after 20 mins of non use. ....the wiki suggests doing the custom wiring to disable the board.
Probably, the custom wiring is actually much cleaner and simpler than stock + changes.
but the kit does allow you to retrofit the Gaggiuino into the exsiting harness.
I'm still not sure which way to go.
I originally wanted to make sure the install was reversable so I'm tempted to do the retrofit.
Also, it is a bit daunting at first to disconnect literally everything and remake some wiring.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The first step was to do the power switch mod.
230V (EU) Gaggia Classic Pro Eco and Evo models with an Eco PCB
This was a simple procedure of removing a switch spring inside the on/off rocker switch.
This will make it bistable.
After you remove the switch, you need to remove the wires from the switch housing.
There are 4 wires (top:blue/orange, ; bottom:red/yellow)
You need to reconnect the blue /orange wires only.
I think the lower ones connect to the eco board which we want to bypass.
Leave the green/yellow one alone ... its ground
Attach new wires from these to the two lower power switch connections ???
I'm at this point just following the video, but I suspect this will change when you add the Gaggiuino board.
This is the shield block at the back of the switches.
There are three of these.
The first thing I'll need to do is remove the connectors from the three blocks and insulate & label each connector in case I wish to return the machine to it's original state.
" if doing stock wiring integration, some connectors will be left in the machine disconnected". (official WIKI)
-----------------------------
The next choice to make:
Arduino nano or STM32?
and do you go LEGO or PCB component layout?
I ordered a Peak Coffee Kit in Hong Kong.
The wait was about 3 months.
I'm patient, and hopefully, I'll save time in the long run.
They are one of the official supporters of this project. Its good Karma to buy from suppliers that will support future developments.
All the cables are pre-built and the PCB is populated. So no soldering required.
There are however no instructions included with the kit.
The kits finally arrived.
This is a pic of the PCB.
3.1 version .
The official description is: GCP (Gaggia Classic pro) PCB v3_1LV
The PCB is pre-flashed.
You can test wire everything and make sure it boots properly before installing.
They recommend you re-flash based on your options (hardware scales), and an stlink is included in the kit to do so.
This uses the Blackpill STM32
The power supply is mounted on the PCB.
Its from Mean well
Input : 100-240VAC
Output is 5V
Also the Kit included this transducer and a bunch of other components.
This is a pressure transducer
0-1.2 Mpa, 5V, G1/4
Also bought from Peak coffee.
Connects to J6
It measures pressure
Lots of hoses, clamps, cables.
This should be everything you need to do the job..... apart from time and patience.
+ ST-Link-STM32.... allows you to flash the board.
+ MAX6675 Thermocouple Module
... it reads the temperature from the boiler.
Controls when to turn on/off the boiler so
the temp remains constant
+ Ungrounded Thermocouple Sensor | K-type, M4, 0.5 m long
Sensor Finglai ? M4 thread - screws into the boiler
+ Dimmer switch (used in light switches) .
Controls the cycles/sec of the vibratory pump. (changes the pressure of the water delivered from the pump to the boiler?).
+ Pressure transducer (pressure sensor - 0-1.2Mpa ) .... measures the pressure
+ 40DA SSR Relay
5V Low-level trigger 1 channel relay module..... opens & closes the solenoid to control waterflow
into the portafilter.
This is the solid state relay (SSR)
The Relay is placed in-line with the boiler heaters for control
Use fork spade connectors on all 4 terminal. It connects to the steaming thermostat.
J9
A SSR is similar to a regular relay except there are no moving parts , so it should last much longer.
..
Custom made – Ceramics ThermoFuse ( 185C – 250V 16A
.. ---------------------------------------------------------
Custom made – Ceramics ThermoFuse ( 185C – 250V 16A
This blog is incredibly insightful! The content is well-researched and presented in an engaging manner. I appreciate the valuable information shared. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to reading more!
ReplyDeleteHalltronics
Ceramic Fuse-18527