NLC build notes - 1U diff-rect

These are my build notes for the Nonlinear Circuits Diff-rect

Its a eurorack 1U tile format module.

But is it Vegan?

My body is a temple.

Its a super simple circuit to build ... a 072 op-amp, two diodes, etc.

This circuit is a hybrid of two basic op amp ‘building blocks’ – a difference circuit and a rectifier.

+ Basic op-amp circuits

A rectifier converts alternating current (AC),  to direct current (DC). ... thus the diodes in the circuit.

The difference circuit is a voltage subtractor.. It uses a Op-amp to produce an output voltage proportional to the voltage difference of two input signals

Links

+ wiki

+ BOM

It is great for mixing audio and/or CV signals to get all kinds of unexpected and interesting results.

It has 2 inputs & 2 outs.

You can use it in lots of ways ... as a complex audio waveshaper, a gate or pulse generator,  a CV shaper or to generally mess things up.

 Those that build a lot of NLC modules will know this is one of Andrew's favorite circuits. 

The diff-rect has appeared on the Neuron, 

1050 mix/sequencer, triple Sloth, GENiE and 8 of them make up the Let's Splosh. 

Here are Andrew's original notes from 2012/13

http://www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/diff%20rect%20neuron%20build%20doc%20v1.pdf

http://www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/dif.html

Opamps & diodes 1st

I'm using a 10R resistor for power protection

Using a 4.7K resistor for LED protection

Jacks

add the headers to connect the 2 PCBs

Add the LEDs

You're done

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You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

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PiLLs - NLC build notes

 Some build notes for the Nonlinear Circuits Pills module.

It's a 1U eurorack format.

Here are Andrew's notes:

https://www.nonlinearcircuits.com/modules/p/1u-pill

BOM:

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5e6e99e8bd2f8a6de8454feb/t/5e779abc28dc473dd30b855c/1584896704526/1u_pills_build_and_bom.pdf

There are 5 inputs & 4 outputs

The inputs: 

CV range 1, CV range 2, FM in, CV1, CV2

Everything affects everything: 

FM IN - feeds both PLL ICs CV Range 1 & 2 - these control the vactrols. 

The control circuits are very simple…..a resistor and a vactrol! 

CV 1 & 2 - these inject a signal into the VCO control input, shove in anything 

from audio to CV rates and see what you get.

The outputs:

VCO 1, VCO2, PM 1, PM2

These are from the PLL VCOs and the phase comparators, all are pulse/square waves 

running from 0-approx 5V.

The build is pretty easy. ICs first.

The IC is a 4046

Make sure the 4046 is rated for at least 15V, some types are 74xxx series and will die in this circuit

Then install passive resistors, caps

The two vactrols are best if DIYed. 

The vactrol circuits are as simple as possible, so it is best to use a

superbright LED and a GL5516  LDR

Here is a bit of info re DIY vactrols:

+ Vactrols - Optocoupliers

The anode of the LED side is the long lead

Heat shrink for the vactrols works well. 

Use a few layers to exclude as much light as you can

I'm using a  a 4k7 resistor for the RL. 

I'm using a 10R  for reverse voltage protection

jacks -- top one 1st

The green PCB connects to the panel holding the jacks with 4 groups of headers.

almost there

This is the rear of the panel

The finished module

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Lange Anna - ST Modular

 These are my build notes for the Lange Anna.

 

 

It's 84HP long.

 

Its basically  a mult  for distributing cv and audio...like the one on the Makenoise skiff.

There are 3 channels. 

Each channel has a pot to set polarity.

Each channel has 1 input and 4 outputs.

Each output has LEDs to indicate polarity

If nothing is connected to an input of a particular channel, its outputs will supply either 10V or 5V (there is a switch to set this). 

 

Links:

Some details from the ST modular website:

https://www.st-modular.com/lange%20anna.htm

The BOM is here

https://github.com/Laminim/EURORACK/blob/master/LANGE%20ANNA/BOM_LANGE_ANNA.xls

You can find files for the rest of ST Modular's modules here:

+ Github

 

Most of the parts are pretty standard.

Op-amps :

4X TL072

3 X TL074 

There are 24 SMD LEDs

All 0805 size

* It´s best to use different SMD LED colours per channel,
e.g. circle = white, square = orange, triangle = green

 

I guess this means 8 of each.

I ended up just using 1 colour.

 

 PJ301M-12 jacks    "Thonkiconn"

Vertical mount mono jacks

+ Jacks & Sockets 

 ordered 22pf 0603 smd

0.1 uF / 100nF C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19

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1N5819HW

voltage protection ?

  Orientation .... I think This is the right way ???

Op-amps 

TL072 & 074

 

resistors - 100k first.

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still waiting on these two caps

ordered from mouser

667-EEE-FK1V100UR
LANGE ANNA
EEE-FK1V100UR
10uF 35V

 

Toggle switch

Time to solder the LEDs

They are polarised of course.

 

Most often you can not see any of the LED markings.

They are super small. I use a microscope or the zoom function of my mobile phone.

A small notch or dot will usually indicate the cathode side of an led. 

This also goes for markings on a board too.

 

Note, I've read the opposite to this on some sites... so check the supplier data sheets

before soldering

The LED Ive purchased is this:

630-hsml-c170-t0000

This is a screen shot from it's data sheet:

And surprise ---- the notch points to the anode ????

Confusing 

If you look closely, you can see a small dot (top view) indicating the anode (according to the data sheet.

Looking from the bottom, there is a T shaped line with the middle pointing to the anode.

 I thought there must be a mistake with the data sheet.

But as it turned out in this case the dot does point to the anode, 

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10k pots on order ebay

Jacks x 15

PJ301M-12

Too be continued..