Showing posts with label PSU - Power Supply Unit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PSU - Power Supply Unit. Show all posts

Friday, 25 December 2020

MetroModular Power 202 PSU

Some build pics of the MetroModular Power 202 PSU.
It's a eurorack power supply. Model number: MM1537 v0.1

The various voltage regulator specs are
+12V 1A
-12V 1A
+ 5V 1.5A

Justin's Power 101 board combined the PSU with the distribution board. 

It's a very easy build. There are a few surface mount components, but they are 0805 and 1206.

Justin may have an new version of this by the time of posting, so check his website for updates.

Mouser 894-shhd001a3b41z

Its a DC/DC converter 18-75V in. 12V out 1.3A

The next 2 regulators are 580-OKI78SR12/1W36C

 Non-Isolated DC/DC Converters 12Vout 1.0A VSIP
Input voltage 15V to 36V
 
tHE 5v converter
OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-c

Input voltage 7V to 36V

 

 
 

These diodes are important to help reduce voltage spikes (flyback).

Gotta love  the choke.
580-51105C
Learn more about inductors here:
 Inductors, ferric beads, noise reduction methods, etc
 

There are 2 capacitors used in this build.
A 10uf and a 22uF ... both SMD.
The caps have a very large footprint... tricky  to solder on.




Don't forget to solder the remote




I'm using this Meanwell PSU
709-gst60a24-p1J
 

It's output is 24V DC @ 2.5 A
:
90V AC to 264V AC


Some Links
+ Metromodular Facebook
+ Metromodular Youtube
+ Metromodular website  

Eurorack Format


Saturday, 19 December 2020

Synthrotek Power supply - 5A build notes

 These are some personal notes for the synthrotek 5A PSU.
It's for eurorack systems.
It comes in 3 flavours
Red, Green & blue

This is a RED PSU.
 

Its ideal for small 1 row systems


I'm building a green PSU today
 

Its good for two rows of 104HP.

The Blue is suited for 3-4 rows of 104 HP


These are the voltage regulators'
-12V & +5V

I decided to install the switch and the power jack 1st since these hold the panel to the PSB


This is the USB connector


Orientate the LEDs so they sit nicely into the panel.


Don't forget the jumper



Caps-
square hole is positive
The orientation of the diodes and caps is slightly different from the RED PSU





Links
+ BOM

For the Blue PSU:




Saturday, 7 November 2020

Befaco Eurorack Power Supply - Lunchbus

 Some pics of the Befaco LunchBus

It's a super easy kit to build ... perfect for beginners.
The Befaco page is here:
 
I purchased a full kit . Befaco is located in Barcelona, Spain.

The power supply needs to be DC 9V to 18V.
(3Amps)
 
This is an old generic PSU from a laptop.
 


 The novel and cool design makes soldering the headers really easy.
The PCB is double sided ... half of the header is soldered on each side




tHERE  is on board +5V, along with the standard +/-12V



I decided to use an old school case.




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For more Euro DIY builds click here:
http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2017/12/diy-index.html
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Tuesday, 1 September 2020

Repairing a Roland TR-808 - Part 1 - Opening the Machine

I've owned this particular 808 for I think 15 years and in all that time I never opened it up.
This is how I purchased it. ... The knobs are wrong, and the step switches have certainly been replaced.... with the wrong colours too. But I never really cared as it just sounded amazing.


Who knows how many hands it has passed through since the 1980s.
And which technicians have worked on it ??
Lately it has started to play up ...mainly the step switches 3 & 9 have stopped working.
Everything else is OK.

Maybe some dust has got in under the switch contacts.
The choice is to replace the individual switches or the whole switch board.

I've decided to try the easy option first and just replace the board.
If I discovered more problems, Id send it to my technician.
Anyway, I purchased the switch circuit board and some knobs from Sound To Parts in France.
https://www.soundtoparts.com/en/3-roland

They have parts for all the major brands.

Be careful when you open up the 808.
Screws can go missing. And different types of screws are used in different parts of the machine.
So put them in safe places.

Long silver headed screws are mainly used on the underside, whereas black ones are mostly on the face.
... shorter ones on the front metal cover and the front. These hold the circuit board to the metal panel.

The sides of the 808 are plastic... the black screws are longer and designed to screw into plastic.





Enough jabbering. Lets get to it and find out what we have.


i DECIDED  to take the knobs of first.





 This volume knob is certainly wrong.










  I started removing the 6 black screws on the front & rear.
These 6 screws are what hold the front panel to the base.

(The base secures the power supply. The actual electronic circuit board it secured to the front panel).

jUST the 3 on the bottom of the rear

And the 3 at the bottom edge on the front.




Next, remove the side plastic panels.

They are held in with 6 screws.
2 on the top & 4 on the bottom

















On my machine, the top screws were black, and the 4 lower were silver.



 You can remove both side panels, but it's not really necessary.
I just removed the left plastic panel.

Once you remove these 6 screws, it just slides out.























You should be able to now lift the top half from the base. The bottom half is the PSU .. consisting of the transformer, a power supply circuit board & the battery compartment.




A close up. Don't touch this unless you are a qualified techno. It can kill you. The whole body and case of the 808 is metal, so any shorts or loose wires from your mains or PSU board could conduct electricity to the front panel and case.  (plastic cases like the ones used by Roland in the TB303 or TR606 don't have this problem).




You can't separate the top and bottom completely as the the main on/off switch is part of the top panel
and the PSU is fixed to the base. This is all hardwired.

The green wire connects to ground.


To Be continued....
Roland Tr 808 repair - Part 2

Links
Transistor at the heart of the 808