NLC fourier module - DIY build notes - part 3

 This is the 3rd & final part of my build for the nonlinear circuits Fourier module.

This Eurorack module tackles the task of waveform & additive synthesis .

Links

Wiki

BOM

Youtube

The build notes for Part 1 & 2 are here:

Fourier - build notes... part 1

Fourier module DIY-- part 2

Headers next.

25  mono sockets

B100K linear taper pots

LEDs 

+ LEDs 

I'm using clear bipolar LEDs.

soldering the LEDs . almost there.

first tests.

I just love it when the module just works the first time.

Thanks Andrew.

KOLOR - LED pixel strip controller for Eurorack

 These are some teaser videos of the new eurorack module "KOLOR" from Elkelektroik.

What is it?

Its a eurorack module that controls LED light strips, blocks, etc

With it you can syncronise LEDSs to add visuals to live modular performances

The module itself runs on standard euro +/- 12V.

The target LED strip however needs it's own power.

Its DC +5V or +12V depending on what voltage your strip requires.

It's compatible with multiple LED strips.

Control can be either manual (via the knobs) or CV patched into 6 jack inputs.

The controls are:

1. Red /hue

2. Green/saturation

3. Blue/value

4. width

5. pixel number

6. preset pattern

Ed will be releasing this on Kickstarter soon.

For more info:

https://www.elkelektronik.com.au/kolor

Insta:

https://www.instagram.com/elk_elektronik/

I'm changing some of the presets & altering the speed with a LFO

I'm using a Erica Synths Pico system III

the module uses a WS2812 LED strip.

This is a programmable LED strip where the control circuit & the RGB chip are combined into one package.

Each LED is addressable. You can daisy chain the LEDs and control them from a single module.

There are lots of different LED formats.

They can be square, rectangular, circular, strips etc.

...These modules are pixel controllable.

Ie, you can control right down to the pixel level.

A bit of random noise.

A bit about the power source for the LED strip.

Euro power is precious, and LED strips can suck up lots of power.

So to preserve the valuable juice for your other modules, Ed has added a second power input just for the LEDs

The very bottom on the left has the input for the power for the LED strip/circle etc.

This can be +5V DC or +12V DC (depending on your LED strip requirements).

The Green rectangular jack on the bottom right is where you connect the LED strip.

There is also a overload switch.

here is a closeup of the Power section for the LED strip.

You need to connect the 3 wires to the LEDs.

DIN = Data in

+5V & Gnd are self explanatory.

On the other side of this LED tile you will see the Dout , +5V and Gnd connections.

These allow you to chain tiles.

NLC Fourier module DIY - part 2

 This is part two of my Fourier module build.

Part 1 is here:

• NLC - Fourier - build notes... part 1

It follows the basic principles of Fourier Synthesis, and being able potentially to design your own waveforms. There aren't many modules that do additive & Fourier synthesis so I'm looking forward to finish this.

The pots (or inputs) allow control of 7 sine (s1-s7) and 8 cosine (C1-C8) signals...... supposedly

being harmonics of the initial signals. “Supposedly” because, the waves

are not pure sinewaves, rather stepped pulse waves.

This module would be well paired with a oscilloscope so you could see the waveforms that you sculpt.

Andrew also reckons that this module needs to be patched into a low pass filter.

Links

Wiki

BOM

Youtube

Nonlinearcircuits Builders Guild on FB:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/174583056349286/ 

074 opamps

resistors ... looks like the resistor matrix is complicated but there are only

three values... 

there are 109 x 10k, 23x 27K, 55 x 15K .

1k resistors on the second PCB

The TL072 opamp & diodes ...LL4148

Im using a S1JL for the power protection.

The two 12k resistors set the output gains for the 2 channels. 

I'm using 12K.

"At some settings the outputs may seem a bit quiet, though generally you

will see 10V p-p. If you want the outputs hotter, install a higher

value, say 22k" (Andrew F).

I'm using bipolar red/blue 3mm LEDs, so 3k3 is my value for RL.

These leds were the same used on the NLC sloth modules.

Final caps & resistors are on.

to be continued....

LD Rama - build notes 2

These are the 2nd part of my build notes for the LDRama.

Part one is here:

LDRama - build notes

.....

It's a 28 light sensor eurorack module.

The module converts light to control voltages.

Andrew F said it was intended to face a 5x2 inch video monitor (phone) but you can really use it in other ways.

There is a 100k pot to set the range.

Generally tweak this so the LEDs are turning on and off but are not at full brightness all of the time. 

You can also patch in an external signal, such as a CV from a sequencer, and process this thru the LDRs.

The outputs are taken from each set of 4 LDRs, the top half of the screen, bottom half, left half, right half, left third, centre third, right third and everything.

The concept for this module is not entirely novel, the Journal of Experimental Music suggested gluing LDRs to tv screens back in the 70s.

links

+ wiki

+ BOM

Attach the B100 k linear taper Pot and jacks and LEDs first .. before the sensors.

I'm using 5mm red LEDs

Leave the LDR sensors till the last.

Time to put the LDRs in.

The LDR leads should go in vertically, not horizontally. 

Straighten the legs of the LDRs as much as possible, then put them in.

Start in the middle of the bottom row . Then once you've done the middle row

works towards the sides. 

Bend the LDR legs once they are in position.

It is tricky to see the leads when peering into the narrow

gap between the PCB and the panel 

Finally there

Initial tests:

1. POT control 

The 100k pot to sets the range.

Tweak this so the LEDs are turning on and off but are not at full brightness all of the time.

2. LFO input

3. LDR tests using my hand

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You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

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NLC - Fourier - build notes... part 1

These are my build notes for the Nonlinear Circuits Fourier module

Its a eurorack  format 24 HP module.

Its a big build.

This module is based on an article presented by E. Muller (Jan 1983 Elektor link to archive.org)

https://archive.org/details/ElektorMagazine/Elektor%5Bnonlinear.ir%5D%201983-01/page/n37/mode/2up

BTW this Elektor magazine is a great resource of info.

"the process of decomposing a function into oscillatory components is often called Fourier analysis, while the operation of rebuilding the function from these pieces is known as Fourier synthesis." Wikipedia.

Fourier synthesis is the process of building a particular wave shape by adding sine and cosine waves.

The module  follows the basic principles of Fourier Synthesis, with the pots (or inputs) allowing 

control of 7 sine and 8 cosine signals. These are supposedly the harmonics of the initial signal. “Supposedly” because, the waves are not pure sinewaves, rather stepped pulse waves.

This synthesis technique is also called additive synthesis.

You can use it for Fourier Synthesis or as a sequencer/pattern generator.

 If you are into shifting soundscapes and drones, this is a great tool.

Links

Wiki

BOM

Youtube

Parts

CD4029 2 Mouser Part No: 595-CD4029BM96

DG406 or DG506 (usually cheaper) x 2 

Mouser Part No:781-DG506BEW-T1-GE3

I ordered the 781-DG506BEW-T1-GE3 ... about $8 each

TL072 or TL082 1 Soic Tayda: A-1139

TL074 or TL084 10 tayda A-1137 or A-1140

LL4148 6 sod-80 Tayda: A-1213

To be continued.....

Part 2 is here:

• NLC Fourier module DIY part 2

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You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

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Gaggiuino - bench test - part 4

This is part 4 of my build notes for the Gaggiunio coffee machine.

Parts 1,2 & 3 are here:

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

The build might change as I work through the various issues... which will obviously happen.

I'll update as I go along.

Some links:

Gaggiuino Project Page

https://gaggiuino.github.io/

Discord;

https://gaggiuino.github.io/#/community/community-media

facebook:

https://www....facebook.com/groups/5362374853865845/

first tests

The advantage of buying from an official supplier like Peak is that all the firmware is  pre-installed.

https://www.peakcoffee.cc/

https://www.peakcoffee.cc/product/gaggiuino-v3-kit-set-gaggia-classic-pro/

It worked first time.

Basic system test. 

Boot OK

thermocouple, 

pressure transducer, 

screen ok, 

Solid State Relay light on

+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

   Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring

   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal & first tests

Gaggiunio Classic Pro - How it works - DIY - part 3

This is part 3 of my build notes for the Gaggiunio coffee machine.

Parts 1 & 2 are here:

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

The build might change as I work through various issues... which will obviously happen.

I'll update as I go along.

Some links:

Gaggiuino Project Page

https://gaggiuino.github.io/

Discord;

https://gaggiuino.github.io/#/community/community-media

facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/5362374853865845/

Every build is different.

There are so many versions of the Gaggia classic.

Thanks to Zer0-bit and the coffee community for making this possible

The inside of a Gaggia Classic.

Before I start pulling the Gaggia apart, I thought it would be a good idea to see how it works, and hopefully understand some of the main components.

When you first turn the machine on, the heaters start to work.

This is the first job of the machine .... to heat water.

Depending on the mode selected (brewing or steaming) the steam & boiler thermostats will switch on and of. When the boiler gets to brewing temp it switches off, ... as its cools down, it will switch back on.

If steam mode is selected, the higher steam thermostat will be turned on., etc.

 

The Gaggia Classic Pro has a vibration pump that pulls water from the reservoir and pushes it into the boiler via the OPV (over pressure valve) or pump safety valve.

The pressure of this valve is limited at 9 - 15 bar (depending on the machine).

This valve has 1 input & 2 outputs.

Water flows in and pushes on a spring-loaded seal. 

If the pressure is below the pressure limit, the seal will stay closed & direct water through the first output, which is used to brew coffee. 

When the pressure of the water is too high, the spring will be compressed & the seal will open, directing water through the 2nd (overflow) output. This leads back to the pressure outlet tube & drip tray.

This water is heated by the walls of the boiler, in which two heating elements are mounted.

This heated water also streams to the 3 way solenoid valve (left pic) which directs that water back into the group head (but also blocks any output to the drip tray). 

Here the water can flow through the dispersion plate/shower screen, which are both mounted to the bottom of the group head.

When the solenoid is off, water can flow from the group to the drip tray.

The water will only flow through the group head when you flick the brew button on.

Turning on the brew switch activates the pump.

Deactivating the brew switch stops the pump & simultaneously switches the 3-way solenoid valve  to allow hot water from the group head to flow to the drip tray via the pressure outlet tube.

Thus, pressure is now removed from the group head & portafilter.

This is the original boiler water thermostat (no 32).

The pic above isn't clear. Its at the base of the boiler.

It will be replaced in the Gaggiuino with a thermocouple

so I will probably need to remove the boiler to get to it.

This replaces the boiler water thermostat .

Just screw it in with lots of thermal paste.

The steam thermostat is at the top of the machine... in the centre of the pic .... much easier to access.

+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

   Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring

   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal