cafe Masy Fluid bed (air roaster) JMS-210

My first roast using the CafeMasy air roaster.

It has 3 fan settings , a timer and a temp setting.

I'm not sure how accurate the temp is.

The basic instruction suggests:

1) Warm up the roaster for a few minutes

2) Fill the bean hopper

3) Set the roaster to:

      240ºC (full temp)

     Max fan speed

     9 Minutes

or 230C at 12 min

Another alternative would be to slowly increase the temp from it's initial charge temp

up to the 204C needed for 1st crack, slowly passing through the 3 phases.

The 3 phases are

Phase                          Min                     Max                   Percentage    End of Phase

Drying               100F 37C            300F 148C                 45%               3 - 4 min

Maillard             300F 148C         400F  204C                 45%               7- 9 min (FC)

Development     400F 204C          500F 260C                 10%                1-2 mins

These are just guides.

So I'll aim for this first;

charge at 150C for 1.5 mins

0 min : 40C

4 min   148C

8 min    204C

9 min : start cooling

uganda bugisu ab washed

100g in 

88.8g out

I adjusted the temp settings on the roaster display

thus:

Charge temp : 150c for 2 mins

vent setting of 2

4min - 150c

4.30 min - 160

5.00min - 170c

6-180

6.30-190

7.00 - 200c

7.30 - 212c

8 - 220

8.3-221

9.10 - 230 - FC

11.00 min drop

thus 11.2 % loss

Light roast

fairly consistent

Not a bad first attempt.

I don't think the temp readings are very useful.

This  machine will benefit with some mods.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

2nd roast

Costa Rica

Experiments with a charge temperature around 205C.

& a low vent setting.

The lower vent should make for higher temperatures as the beans aren't being tossed up so much.

These are my recordings for the roast:

charge at 205C for 1.5 mins

then lower it to 180c

4 min   195C

6 min 200c

7 min 202 C  (FC was at 7.48)

8 min    204C

10 min 211C

I was going to drop at 10 for a light roast but 

I let it run to 13 mins .... this is just into dark roast levels

In 100g

out 85g

15% water loss

I think raising temp gradually  to

180 c - 5min is OK --- drying should be finished by then.

 204c at 8mins is a good target.

then gradually raise temp to 220 at 11 mins

then drop there. for a medium roast.

.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffee index. Click here :

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

Roast 5 - PNG arabica - medium roast using a kitchen drum-air fryer

 This is a re do of roast 4.

+ Roast 4 - Kitchen Drum roaster - PNG Arabica

I'm using a kitchen air fryer. I picked this machine over your standard tray air fryer as it has a drum. However, the temperature is difficult to precisely measure and control.

These were my measurements from the last roast:

Time               Temp         

0 ....                200c charge 

1.30                169 TP

2                     163

2.30                153

3.00                148

3.30                144

4.00                143

4.30                146

5.00                150.... end of yellowing phase

5.30                155

6.00                163

6.30                170

7.00                175

7.30                179

8.00                181 ... end of browning phase

8.30                184  FC. start development phase

9.00                190

9.30                196

10.00              202

10.30              END roast temp 207C

The coffee was very light (which I like) but my original aim was to get a medium-dark roast.

So I'll up the temp targets by 20C overall and use less beans.(150g)

Target temps:

0 min Charge: 220c

3.30                 160

5 min               170

8 min                191

8.30                  204

10                    220

end roast          230

These temps all seem very high but I suspect the bean temp is 20C cooler

---------------------------------------------------\

Roast 5

PNG Simbu Arabica

so there is a bit of guess work here.

The fryer only has a timer & temp control knob which is not accurate.

I was playing it constantly during the roast and reading these temps

time                 Old Temp New Temp

0 ....              200c charge ................ 215

1.30          169 TP ............. 191

2                      163..........................................................192

2.30          153 ....................... 192

3.00                148 ........................ 184

3.30                144..........................................................182

4.00                143 ........................ 175

4.30                146 ........................ 171

5.00    end of yellowing phase  150........................................167 

5.30                155 ........................ 166

6.00                163 ......................... 167

6.30                170 ........................... 173

7.00                175..........................................................179

7.30                179 ........................ 188

8.00  end of browning phase     181 198 

8.30                184  FC. start development phase........  213

9.00                190 ......................... 214

9.30                196 ........................ 209

10.00              202 ........................ 207

10.30              END roast temp 207C ......... 220

start weight 150g

end weight 132g

18g weight loss ... 12%... medium roast ?

+ Estimating roast level from water loss

I was happy with the final result.

This roaster is certainly not good for precision or repeatability but I enjoy a challenge.

Every roast you do will be unique.

You need to keep an eye on the temperature and adjust the temp knob up or down

to keep the temp on target.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To do a medium roast on this machine with 150g beans my targets are:

0 min ... charge temp of  220C

1.30                aim for     150C (tipping point)

3.30                aim for     160C

5mins             aim for     170C (end of yellowing phase. entering browning phase)

7mins             aim for      180C

8mins             aim for      200C end browning phase 

9mins             aim for      215C first crack ???

10 mins          aim for      220C   finish here. (drop)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffee index. Click here :

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

KOLOR - Combining multiple LED tiles

 Some videos showing examples of how to combine mutiple LED tiles

Here is what the rear of the tiles looks like.

There are 3 connections ... 5V, Gnd and either DIN or DOUT

I'm just playing with the random settings on the KOLOR module.

It's Eurorack, from Elk Elektronik's in Australia.

Ed has been working on this for ages, and is releasing it on Kickstarter.

Ed describes it as a WS2812 LED Pixel Strip Controller for Eurorack.

It's compatible with multiple LED strips.

Control can be either manual (via the knobs) or CV patched into 6 jack inputs.

The controls are:

1. Red /hue

2. Green/saturation

3. Blue/value

4. width

5. pixel number

6. preset pattern

For more info visit:

https://www.elkelektronik.com.au/kolor

NLC - More (cowbell drum module) - Build notes

These are my build notes for the nonlinear circuits "more" module.

It's a eurorack module.

This module contains three individual cowbell circuits based on those in the Roland TR-808.

Links

+ Wiki

+ BOM

As far as parts go there isn't anything rare or hard to find.

CD 40106 

& three Opamps - TL072

CD40106 (CMOS IC with 6 Schmitt trigger inverters)

The really cool thing about this circuit is that it uses a logic chip to make metallic noise

Each bell uses 2 of the 6 oscillators.

I think in the 808, similar circuits provide the basis for the cymbal & hi hat sounds

The original 808 used band pass filters to remove the upper and lower partials.

Andrew's description is as follows:

"The filters are fixed as per the original design. This means the output

is loudest when the oscillators are set close to the operating frequency

range of the filters and softer when the oscillators are at much higher

or lower settings. For me, this seems fine, but mess with the filter

values if you like. I have seen some mods of the 2k2 to ground resistor

varied to change the filter range. In proto-typing, this was

experimented with but I didn’t feel it was much improvement."

resistors next

Diodes: LL4148

These are the power protection voltage rectifiers... or just use a 10 ohm resistor and dont plug the module in backwards.

You'll need a through hole +5V 100mA voltage regulator : 78L05. 

power header

Transistors : BC857, 847

Six 1M pots.

12 sockets

The accent input is tied to the trigger input via the switch tab,

probably best to use a gate rather than a trigger to get the sound going,

but that depends on what you want to do. Otherwise patch whatever you

like to make things happen.

This is a dense but easy build.

More links

+ Hackaday

+ Roland TR-808 cowbell rebuild

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You can find more NLC builds here.

http://djjondent.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/non-linear-circuits-ncl-index.html

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gaggia Classic - list of models 1991 to 2024

 The Gaggia classic was first released back in 1991. It's a classic not really because it produces the best coffee out there. Rather, these were admired for their simplicity and practical engineering.

They are reliable, fixable, economic, durable.

Gaggia Classic 1991 - 2009

The original Classics had rocker switches that lasted forever, a small 80ml boiler with a big heating element (that heated up quickly) and a three way solenoid valve (instead of a spring valve).

The original classic  was made between 1991 and 2009 

(SIN035 RI9303)

The solenoid valve allows the water to gently enter the group head rather than hitting the puck with force.

There was also a OPV (over pressure valve) that was easy to tweak to get 9 bars of pressure.

Finally, it was easy to modify.... from changing the drip tray, and steam wand, to adding PIDs, flow controllers and microcontrollers.

Parts are cheap and easy to install.

They are built like tanks and if looked after will last a lifetime.

Gaggia was acquired in 1999 by the Italian firm Saeco .

The Gaggia production site was moved from Robecco sul Naviglio (Milan) to Romania & Gaggio Montano (Bologna) in 2007. 

The machine on the left is a 2003 model.

Montano was the location of Saeco's International HQ. Saeco didn't at this point change the Classic design. 

Still the same rocker switches with the larger steam switch in the middle. The lights are in the bottom of the switch.

The pre 2009 Gaggia classic logo is printed in black on the lower right corner.

The Romanian models are still pretty good.

But, in 2009, when Philips bought Seaco International the new management decided to alter the design and manufacture.

There are several Gaggia classic models that could be called the "old model"

but I think the true classics are pre-2009.

Machines made up until about 2009 have the sticker on the back

"Made in Milan" (Robecco s/N (Milano) or "Made in Italy" and these are what referred to as the "original classic".

The water tank is 2.1 litres.

Models between 2009 & 2014

SIN035 RI9303

This still has the solenoid valve.

The logo is raised, metallic.

The words "Classic" above "GAGGIA".

The classic 2015 - 2018 is the most controversial version. (SIN035U RI9403)

Also known as the Gaggia Classic V2

 It has modern push buttons in stead of the rocker switches. ...the push buttons tend to stick.

It doesn't have the 3 way solenoid valve.

It uses a stainless steel boiler instead of the traditional aluminum one

The logo is raised, metalic.

Gaggia above Classic

Lights are in the upper part of the switches

& there no discharge pipe into the drip tray.

Finally, you can't mod the steam wand.

In 2019, Gaggia returned to the old design with the Gaggia Classic Pro (SIN035R RI9380) & Gaggia Pro Eco (SIN035UR RI9480)

The rockers are a new design. Steam is now on the right.

The lights are not integrated into the switches.

The Eco version had a new Eco PCB .

This is a power saving 20min switch

Both models were manufactured between 2019 & 2022

(SIN035R RI9380)

It's manufactured in Italy, has a 3 way solenoid valve and the 

old small aluminum boiler.

The OPV (over pressure valve) can't be tweaked to 

adjust the pressure.

The steam wand was great out of the box, so no tweaking needed.

The On/off switch has a auto off.... not quite the same as the original.

Chrome plated brass group head & portafilter.

Gaggia Classic Evo Pro 2023

RI9481 (SIN035R) - 240V version

RI9380 (SIN035R) - 120V version

Externally, pretty much identical to the 2019 model

Solid brass group (instead of being chrome plated).

Solid stainless steel portafilter instead of chrome plated brass. 

Eco PCB 

9 Bar OPV

There is a new non-stick coating on the boiler.

Gaggia thought that the contact between uncoated brass group and aluminum boiler may lead to galvanic corrosion. 

However this has lead to some cases of "boiler Gate" where the coating started to flake off.

The boiler max capacity is 140ml, operating capacity is 105ml (3.5oz). The water reservoir holds 2.1l of water (72fl.oz)

Classic Evo Pro 2024

The aluminum boiler is now uncoated.

Gaggia Classic Pro E24.

RI9481 (SIN035R)

9 bar brewing, 3 way solenoid valve, high thermal mass components, 58mm portafilter, brass boiler and the ability to upgrade with precision filter baskets and other pro brewing accessories.

Being made of brass and with a higher capacity, the new boiler stores more heat, to guarantee a better temperature stability, an enhanced control and stability of steam pressure, and steam produced for longer.

Reports are the the new brass boiler can be added 

to older models.

Links

+ Auber mods

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6&sort=20a

+ My main Coffee Index Page:

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

+ Gaggia Classic Evo Pro - Modding with arduino - Gaggiuino

   Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

   Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

   Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

   Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time 

   Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring

   Part 6 Gaggiuino boiler & pump removal & first tests

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffee index. Click here :

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

Roasting for espresso

Espresso is a brewing method not a type of bean.

Espresso machines use high pressure and shorter brew times when compared to other brew methods like filter.

Thus beans that are tailored for espresso are roasted in special ways.

An espresso roast refers to coffee beans roasted specifically for espresso brewing, typically longer and hotter than filter roasts to increase body and decrease acidity. This longer roasting process makes the beans more soluble for extraction, while the darker color and oily surface develop richer, bolder flavors like chocolate and caramel. While labeled for espresso, these beans can also be used for other brewing methods. Though there are no hard rules, here are some ideas to keep in mind.

A huge number of espresso shots will be put into milk beverages.

So to cut through the milk the shots need to have more caramelized , chocolate and smoky notes for example. This will pair better with milk in comparison to lighter coffees that have more acidity.

Even if there is some bitterness from the darker roast, the sweetness in the milk should balance this.

Darker roasts because they are more porous are easier for the espresso machine, which uses very little water, to extract.

☕️ 1. Start with the Right Green Coffee

When buying, look for beans lots with:

• Medium natural acidity (so you don't need to roast too dark to bring out the acidity) and even if you roast to the start of second crack you will still have full mouthfeel , some body and sweetness.
• Dense, even beans
• Clean processing (washed or pulped natural)

Here are suggested espresso-friendly origins and varieties:

Origin	Varieties	Flavor Profile (Espresso)	Roast Target
Brazil (Minas Gerais, Cerrado, Sul de Minas)	Bourbon, Catuai, Mundo Novo	Chocolate, nutty, caramel, mild fruit — classic espresso base	Medium-dark (just past first crack)
Colombia (Huila, Antioquia)	Caturra, Castillo, Typica	Balanced, sweet, toffee and citrus hints — adds brightness and sweetness	Medium
Guatemala (Antigua, Huehuetenango)	Bourbon, Carivore Caturra, Typica	Cocoa, stone fruit, brown sugar — deep sweetness, great body	Medium
El Salvador / Nicaragua	Bourbon, Pacamara	Syrupy, chocolate, subtle fruit — great for single-origin espresso	Medium-dark
Ethiopia (Sidamo)	Heirloom	Floral, tea-like, fruity — good for modern “specialty” espresso	Light to medium (careful roast)
Sumatra (Lintong, Aceh)	Typica	Earthy, spicy, heavy body — perfect for blending	Medium-dark
India (Kaapi Royale, Plantation A) India (Monsoon Malabar)	Robusta or Arabica Robusta or Arabica	Deep crema, spice, cocoa bitterness Deep crema, spice, cocoa bitterness	Dark, small % in blend Dark, small % in blend

-

notes:

• Don't choose something like a Ethopian Yirgacheffe which is a great filter coffee. This bean is sour, fruity but acidic. To roast the acidity out of the bean you would have to go so dark that the coffee would loose sweetness and body.

---

🔬 2. Suggested Blend Formulas

You can roast each origin separately, then blend post-roast to fine-tune balance.

💎 Classic Italian-style Espresso Blend

Component	Ratio	Roast	Role
Brazil Bourbon	50%	Medium-dark	Base sweetness & chocolate
Colombia Caturra	30%	Medium	Balance & mild acidity
India Robusta (Kaapi Royale)	20%	Dark	Crema & strength

→ Result: Thick crema, chocolate/caramel profile, low acidity, perfect with milk.

---

🌸 Modern Specialty Espresso Blend

Component	Ratio	Roast	Role
Guatemala Bourbon	40%	Medium	Body & sweetness
Ethiopia Heirloom	40%	Medium-light	Fruity, floral top notes
Brazil Catuai	20%	Medium-dark	Base & balance

→ Result: More aromatic, juicy espresso with higher sweetness and layered flavor.

---

🔥 3. Roast Strategy Tips for Espresso

Espresso extraction highlights both sweetness and roast flaws — so aim for:

1. Even development: 20–25% development time ratio after first crack.

2. No tipping/scorching: Keep charge temps moderate.

3. You want a somewhat flatter curve to increase development, but you don't necessarily want to change your drop temperature. So, using the same bean you might roast 10-30% longer for an espresso roast than a drip roast.

4. Roast depth:

   • Light → brighter, acidic espresso (good for fruity beans).

   • Medium → sweet, balanced espresso.

   • Medium-dark → chocolatey, creamy, traditional espresso.

5. Rest time: Always rest 5–10 days after roasting before pulling espresso — CO₂ affects extraction and crema.

---

⚙️ 4. Buying Tips

When shopping for green beans:

• Check density (high-density = more flexible in roast).

• Avoid very bright African coffees for your first espresso roasts.

---

🧾 5. Sample Roast Plan (for a Brazilian Bourbon)

Roaster: 1 kg drum

• Charge: 195°C

• Dry end: 5:00

• First crack: 9:00 (198–200°C)

• Drop: 11:00 (208–210°C)

• Development ratio: ~20%
  → Medium-dark roast, chocolate, almond, caramel.

• --------------------------------------------------------------------

• Using a Behmor 2020 ... my plan

• the Behmor 2020SR is a solid home drum roaster for espresso roasting. It’s gentle, has good thermal momentum, and allows for repeatable profiles once you learn how to manage its heat curves.

• ⚙️ 1. Understanding the Behmor for Espresso

  The Behmor 2020 uses preset power levels (P1–P5) and manual overrides rather than full PID control.
  Key Behmor traits to keep in mind:

  • Slower heat response → favors medium to medium-dark roasts.

  • Lower convective airflow → easier to develop syrupy, chocolatey espresso beans.

  • Best batch size: 250–300 g (for consistent drum temps and airflow).

  ---

  ☕️ 2. Espresso Bean Strategy for the Behmor

  Since the Behmor naturally encourages smooth, full-bodied roasts, choose low-acid, dense beans. Perfect for:

  • Brazil Bourbon or Catuai (base)

  • Colombia Caturra or Castillo (sweetness)

  • India Kaapi Royale Robusta (optional crema & strength)

  • Optional modern touch: small % of Ethiopia Guji or Sidamo Heirloom

  ---

  🧪 3. Recommended Blend (Behmor-Optimized)

  Classic Balanced Espresso (beginner-friendly)

  Component	%	Purpose
  Brazil Natural Bourbon (Minas Gerais)	50%	Chocolate base
  Colombia Washed Caturra (Huila)	30%	Sweetness & mild acidity
  India Robusta Kaapi Royale	20%	Crema & depth

  Optional tweak: Replace Robusta with 10% Sumatra Typica for more earthy complexity and lower caffeine.

  ---

  Modern Specialty Espresso (fruitier)

  Component	%	Purpose
  Brazil Catuai (Natural)	40%	Chocolate base
  Guatemala Bourbon (Antigua)	40%	Brown sugar & fruit balance
  Ethiopia Sidamo Heirloom (Washed)	20%	Floral top notes

  → Use a slightly lighter roast to preserve aromatics.

  ---

  🔥 4. Behmor Roast Profile (Medium–Dark Espresso)

  Here’s a tested Behmor 2020 roast plan (300 g batch) for espresso balance:

  Stage	Time (min)	Target Temp (approx.)	Power	Notes
  Drying	0–5:00	~150 °C	P5	Even yellowing; beans still grassy.
  Maillard	5:00–9:00	150–190 °C	P4	Light brown, caramel aromas.
  1st Crack Start	~9:30–10:00	~196 °C	P3	Listen carefully — Behmor muffles cracks.
  Development	10:00–11:30	~208–210 °C	P3 or P2	1.5–2 min after 1st crack start.
  Drop/Cool	~11:30	—	Cool immediately	Use the Behmor’s cooling cycle + door open.

  Development Ratio: ~20% of total roast time.
  → You’ll get a medium-dark roast, sweet with low acidity and syrupy body. Perfect for espresso.

  ---

  🧊 5. Post-Roast Tips

  • Rest: 5–10 days minimum (7 is ideal) before pulling espresso.

  • Storage: Airtight, dark, one-way valve bag.

  • Dial-in guidance:

  • Dose: 18 g in / 36 g out / 28–32 s (9 bar, 93 °C)

  • Grind slightly finer than for medium roasts.

  • ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Coffee index. Click here :
    
    
    https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/03/coffee.html

Coffee bean grading systems

Coffee bean grading systems are methods used to evaluate and classify coffee beans based on their quality, size, origin, and defects. These systems vary by country and are often tied to national standards or export regulations. Here's a detailed overview of the main grading approaches used globally:

---

☕ 1. By Bean Size (Screen Size Grading)

• Used in: Many countries including Kenya, Colombia, and Central American nations.

• Basis: Beans are passed through screens with holes of different sizes (measured in 1/64 of an inch).

• Example:

  • Screen 18 = 18/64 inch diameter (large beans)

  • Screen 16 = 16/64 inch (medium)

  • Screen 14 = 14/64 inch (small)

• Typical Labels:

  • AA: Very large (Screen 18+)

  • AB: Medium-large (Screen 16–17)

  • C: Smaller (Screen 14–15)

👉 Larger beans don’t necessarily mean better flavor, but they often roast more evenly.

---

🌍 2. By Altitude or Growing Region

• Used in: Latin America (especially Central America).

• Basis: Higher altitudes tend to produce denser, harder beans with more complex flavors.

• Example (for Arabica beans):

  • Strictly Hard Bean (SHB) / Strictly High Grown (SHG): Grown above 1,200–1,400 m (4,000–4,600 ft)

  • Hard Bean (HB): 900–1,200 m

  • Medium / Low Grown: Below 900 m

• Countries using this: Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Panama, etc.

---

🧾 3. By Defect Count (Quality / Cleanliness Grading)

• Used in: Ethiopia, Brazil, Colombia, and many others.

• Basis: Number and type of defects (broken beans, black beans, insect damage, etc.) in a 300–350g sample.

• Example:

  • Specialty Grade: 0–3 defects per 350g; excellent uniformity and cup quality.

  • Premium Grade: 4–8 defects.

  • Exchange Grade: 9–23 defects.

  • Below Standard: More than 23 defects.

• System reference: Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) cupping standards.

---

🌱 4. By Cup Quality (SCA Cupping Score)

• Used globally in specialty coffee markets.

• Basis: Sensory evaluation by certified Q-graders.

• Scoring system (0–100 points):

  • 90–100: Outstanding (Rare)

  • 85–89.99: Excellent (Specialty)

  • 80–84.99: Very Good (Specialty)

  • <80: Below specialty grade

• Assessed attributes: Aroma, flavor, acidity, body, balance, sweetness, uniformity, aftertaste, and defects.

---

🇧🇷 5. By Country-Specific Systems

Each coffee-producing country often has its own grading terminology and criteria. Examples:

Brazil:

• Uses NY (New York) grading and screen size.

• Grades like NY 2/3, NY 4/5 — lower numbers mean fewer defects.

Colombia:

• Grades by size and density: Supremo (screen 17/18), Excelso (screen 14–16).

Ethiopia:

• Grades 1 to 9 based on defects and cup quality:

  • Grades 1–2: Washed, specialty-grade

  • Grades 3–5: Natural or lower quality

  • Grades 6–9: Commercial/lower grades

Kenya:

• Grades mainly by screen size:

  • AA: Screen 18

  • AB: Screen 16–17

  • PB (Peaberry): Single round bean per cherry

  • C, TT, T: Smaller or broken beans

---

🧡 Summary Table

Method	Focus	Example Grades	Typical Use
Size	Physical bean diameter	AA, AB, C	Kenya, Colombia
Altitude	Elevation/density	SHB, HB	Central America
Defect Count	Cleanliness/quality	NY 2/3, Grade 1	Ethiopia, Brazil
Cup Score	Sensory attributes	80+, 85+, etc.	Specialty coffee
National Standards	Country-specific	Supremo, Excelso, etc.	Colombia, Kenya