This is part 2 of my building of the Klee sequencer
The Klee is a classic sequencer.
Sometimes referred to as a "shift register sequencer", the inspiration is from 2 sources I understand:
Don Buchla's 266 SOU and Ken Stone's Gated Comparator.
The Klee circuitry was designed by Scott Stites and uses two CD4034s as its shift register.
It's design has been adapted to Eurorack , 5U MOTM, 4U Serge & Buchla formats.
Other modules such as the turing machine & the noise ring also use a shift register.
These are worth exploring.
Part 1 and 3 are here
It's not a difficult build. Just a long one.
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The lower mother board is made up of a digital and an analog side.
Digital side now
R71-R78 --- do not install anything in these positions (leave them empty)
These are marked with a *
100K resistors first
There are 24 of these.
They are 1%, 1/4W
R 23 TO R26, R30, R49,
R52 TO R62, R81 TO
R84, R89, R90, R94
Metal Film Resistor 4.7Kohm 1%
R31, R48, R85 TO R88
and R32 TO R47 these are the sixteen 12V LEDs ?
So what's the difference between a Klee and a standard sequencer?
As mentioned earlier ... this uses bit shift registers.
A standard sequencer can only have one step active at a time, but a Klee can have many active steps.
If more than one bit is active , the slider values will be summed.
R91 - bom says 270K
Was supplied a 270ohm
I'll use a 270K resistor in the build.
Film Capacitors 100volts 1000pF
Six of these - C6 TO C10, C18
The 22K resistors ... there are 25 of these according to the BOM however they aren't numbered.
Through a process of elimination, the resistors are
R1 to R22, 50, 51,80. These are all 5% tolerance, 1/4 W
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Back to the Analogue Board
It is the source of the signals required for the Variable Range control
options. It is also the board that directly interfaces to the power supply, and the board
that involves all of the calibration of the Klee.
Dont install this trimmer (R41) on the analog section of the mother board.
If any of the variable range options are installed, then you should refrain from installing
R41. The front panel Variable Range Control will take over the function performed by
that trim pot
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It's time to install the ICs
The OP amps of the Analog board first
.. 072 & 074s
Note W2.
This is a jumper.
W2, is only installed if any of the variable range options are not
installed.
(Note that if you are using the older build manual they will mention jumper W1, which I can't see on this Euro board... W1 should only be installed if the power
supply, for some reason, has only one ground connection.... as is the case with Eurorack. In other words, if you have a
power supply with only one ground lead, install W1. This ties the analog and digital
grounds together at this one point).
J16
J16
provides the signal(s) to the front panel Variable Range control(s).
In the old build manual, you needed to put a jumper here I understand.
The manual for the Euro-Klee says
"You
do not need to install any of these jumpers – it’s all taken care of on the daughterboard."
The CMOS ICs - CD4051, & 4066 x 4
The digital board
CD4071 - U3, Quad 2 Input OR Gate
CD4013 - u5 , Dual D Flip Flop
CD4053 - Quad 1 of 2 Switch - multiplexer - u9
CD4093 Quad Schmitt Nand Gate x 3
U4, U12 – U13
LM358 Dual OpAmp x 2.... U1, U8
LM324 324 LOW POWER QUAD OP-AMP IC x2
U14, U15
CD40106BE Hex Schmitt Trigger x 3. U2, U10 – U11
Only one type of transistor is used throughout the Klee Sequencer – the 2N3904 NPN
transistor, and they’re all located on the Digital Board. These transistors are used to drive
the clock, reference and gate bus LEDs. There are six of these transistors.
CD4034 x 2.... U6 & U7
they're 8-Stage tri-state bidirectional parallel/serial input/output bus registers
The board is pretty much done.
Now time for the headers
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Putting the headers in is a fiddly process.
Here is a list of the headers:
Analogue Board:
SIL Pin Rows --- J1, J3, J5, J6, J7, J8, J10, J12, J13, J15, J16
MTA Headers --- J2, J4, J9, J11 (not placed in 2015+)
Digital Board:
SIL Pin Rows --- J2, J4, J5, J8, J9, J11, J12, J13
MTA Headers --- J1, J3, J6, J7, J10 (not placed in 2015+)
I like to line up 4 at a time and solder, then pull the boards apart and reposition 4 more.
Eventually, the boards should look something like this
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This is the top of the daughter board.
It holds the switches, sliders, pots, LEDs etc.
Some of the sliders sit on top of some of the headers we just soldered.
Socket pin shaving time to decrease chance of shorts ..
TRy to cut them as close to the PCB as possible to avoid any shorting.
Ive added some electrical tape as well
To be continued.......
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