JonDent - Exploring Electronic Music: July 2024

Wednesday, 17 July 2024

Rao Allonge / Sprover profile - coffee shots

Scott Rao's Allonge shot or a Coffee Shot

Sometimes called the Sprover = espresso + pour over

Very controversial because it's super long.

It's kind of like an Americano or a Australian long black, but the difference

is that you don't just add water to an espresso.

Basically you are trying to make filter style coffee using an espresso machine.

Initallly it started with using a standard espresso machine (with 9 bars) and

a coarse grind.

The method was to pass water through the puck at 9 bars for 30 secs ... aiming to get

a ratio of 1: 10 etc

According to Decent/John Buckman,

a 1:5 ratio (can do 1:4-7 or so) is good.

But with a sprover 1:11 or 1:13 is common

It's hard to do this on many "standard espresso machines" as they don't usually hold enough water

Remember to use a coarser grind than usual.... like on a Aeropress or V60

and Pull for around 30-60 seconds

Matt Perger recommended using the EK-47 grinder

https://hex.coffee/blogs/journal/why-we-coffee-shot-how-we-coffee-shot

These really long shots give amazing clarity ... esp for lighter roasts.

Ideally try to get a low flow rate -- maybe 3ml/sec

or 4.5ml/second flow rate the whole way

- peak at 8-9 bar, and ideally finish around 6ish on a lever.

Pressure shouldn't go below 4bar on a lever , but with a e61, it can finish at 1-1.5 bar

... just experiment

----------------

Not all coffee machines can do this type of shot.

You need a machine with a large reservoir , and the ability to control flow rate.

If you have a entry level single boiler, you will probably not have enough water.

Machine that can do these types of shots:

Most flow profile e61 machines

Breville dual boiler

Nomad manual lever

Decent

Monday, 15 July 2024

Common Espresso machine port sizes (G vs M), tubes and fittings

Espresso machine have a wide range of sizes of pressure gauges, temp gauges, ports etc etc.

It can be a bit confusing.

They may connect to a boiler or the steam wand, or a pressure gauge.

There are a few fitting types to remember:

T & L

These are used to connect three or two tubes

of the same size

Adapter or Nipple

This is an adapter.

These are used to connect two tubes (for example) of different sizes

This is a hexagonal nipple

Straight 3/8 to 1/2 BSP.

It's nickel plated brass

Most espresso machines use BSP fittings and is sometimes called a pipe or G-type.

There are two versions: Parallel vs Tapered.

BSPP=Parallel / straight (this is the most common).

BSPT = Tapered.

These use imperial inches, not metric measurements.

The main difference between G and M threads is that G threads are a type of pipe thread, while M threads are a type of metric thread:

G threads

Also known as British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP) threads, G threads are a type of pipe thread with a 55 degree angle and a constant diameter. They are cylindrical on the inside and outside, and are suitable for pressure-tight connections that are not sealed by the thread. G threads are commonly used in the water and gas pipe industries.

M threads

Also known as ISO metric threads, M threads are specified in metric units (mm). The nominal size of an M thread is determined by the thread's major diameter and pitch.

The common sizes you will find in coffee machines are: G1/8", G1/4", G3/8", G1/2", M9, M12, M6, M10

Flair 58 - uses G1/8

Flair Pro2 - M9

E61 machines

(like the Lelit v3, Rocket R58, La Marzocco GS3 and Profitec Pro series) -

They use a M6 thread for the group head pressure/temp connector.

I use a BooKoo pressure sensor on my machine which uses a G1/8 thread. This makes it compatible with the Flair 58 or La Marzocco GS3.

The Bookoo came with an G1/8" to M6 adapter so it can work with my E61.

I've added a Pressure profiling Kit to my La Pavoni Europiccola.

This uses a G1/8 adapter

So the Bookoo pressure sensor fits onto it (without need for the G1/8 to M6 adapter).

Here are some other examples of adapters:

the M6 end is to the left.

G1/8 on the right end

Pavoni Pressure Gauge Steel Nut M11

This adapter nut allows you to add a boiler pressure gauge.

The Pressure gauge has a 1/8" fitting.

1/8" = (8.6mm) Female

This stainless steel nut will convert La Pavoni models made after 1990.

Models made before 1990 will need a 1/8" to M12 (12mm) adapter.

-------------------------

E61 Group Head Chrome Mushroom Cap

Slightly more coarse threads than the standard 3/8" British Standard Pipe thread. Chrome covered brass.

The most common thread size for a portafilter spout is 3/8 in BSP. The bottom of the portafilter body has 3/8" in female threads.

If you are pulling a shot and lack room for your glass between the drip tray and the bottom of the portafilter, just remove the spout.

The thread size for a 58mm portafilter handle is M10 or M12.

The thread is also 3/8" BSP

This is the steam valve on a Faema Faema from 1964.

The thread size is 3/4" BSP

--------------------------------------

Other thread formats:

NPT : National Pipe Thread

National Pipe Thread (NPT) is a U.S. standard for tapered threads used to connect pipes and fittings. NPT threads are characterized by:

Tapered: NPT threads have a tapered male and female thread.

60° angle: NPT threads have a 60° thread angle.

Flat crests and roots: NPT threads have flat crests and roots.

Taper rate: The taper rate for NPT threads is 1⁄16 in (3⁄8 in per foot).

Common sizes: Common NPT sizes include 1⁄8 in, 1⁄4 in, 3⁄8 in, 1⁄2 in, 3⁄4 in, 1 in, 1 1⁄4 in, 1 1⁄2 in, and 2 in.

NPT and BSP threads are not interchangeable because they have different thread forms, pitch, and flank angles. However, you can use an adapter to convert between the two

Monday, 8 July 2024

MUN - build notes 2

This is part 2 of my build notes for the nonlinear circuits Mun module.

The eurorack 22HP module is a 10 channel vocoder based on the Syntovox 222

The word Vocoder is a combination of two words.

Voice + Code = Vocoder

Vocoded signals were essentially a form of data compression for voice.

Links

+ Wiki

+ BOM

+ A bit about vocoders

Part 1 is here:

https://djjondent.blogspot.com/2024/02/mun-build-notes-nlc-vocoder.html

on order:

150nF = 0.15uF

To be continued....

Saturday, 6 July 2024

Audacity 3.6 Out Now! New Effects & New Master Channel!

Wednesday, 3 July 2024

Adaptive profile --- pressure vs flow

This is one of the settings on my Gaggiuino.

There is a lot of debate about pressure vs flow profiles.

Pressure = flow x puck resistance.

They are linked.

The early (analog) lever machines naturally understood this relationship.

You pulled on a spring (loaded at 9 bar).

As the lever went up the pressure slowly decreased from 9 bar.

During this time, the flow naturally would also decrease.

And this would compensate for the degradation of the puck over time.

The end result was a great cuppa.

Today, pumped machines keep the pressure at 9 bar even though the puck is degrading.

The result is a increase in flow rate towards the end of the shot with a much more diluted finish.

I think lever machines had it right from the beginning. When you pulled the lever down (in the case of a spring lever) the puck was saturated instantly

(at boiler pressure) reducing the chance of puck unseating, and then a pressure to flow relationship was maintained during the shot pull.

With my E61 machine I'm getting about 7g/sec flow.

It will continue to deliver water to the coffee puck at that rate until it hits 9 bar.

At that point, the OPV will kick in.

Usually the 9 bar level is reached pretty early .. usually at the end of pre-infusion.

The flow rate is probably not 7g/sec. Instead, it will be whatever it needs to be to stay at 9 bar.

Is flow more important than pressure?

Flow is very hard to control.

Resistance is related to the type of grinder, the grind size, roast level, puck integrity, grind solubility, tamp force, distribution, etc

I think that above 10bar, coffee doesn't taste great, so if your focus is on flow

and you accidently touch 10 bar, you risk the coffee failing.

The adaptive setting is very interesting.

Its designed to prioritize the flow rate .... moving it up or down

& adapt it to the chosen grind and dose size..... keeping everything below the peak pressure.

Note that preinfusion is mostly about flow (as there is usually very low pressure).

When discussing flow we usually are focused on the post infusion stage.

Tuesday, 2 July 2024

Blooming espresso profile

This profile has a very long initial pre infusion stage before a flow controlled pressured stage.

Blooming was inspired by pour over drip coffee brewers... releasing CO2 and allowing the grounds to be fully saturated.

It's a great profile for extracting sweetness, esp from lighter roast coffee that is really acidic.

It's a very forgiving profile.

Don't use a dark roast with this profile unless you like your coffee bitter.

You can replicate this on a lever machine.... or any machine that allows you to control pressure.

Firstly, make sure you grind slightly finer than usual.

Method:

1. Ramp the pressure up

to 4 to 6 bar over 10

secs.

Once you hit about 5

bar stop pushing on

your lever (if you're

using a lever machine).

2. You should have let go

of the lever.

This is the blooming

stage where the flow

drops to zero.

The pressure will also drop to zero as water is absorbed into the puck.

If you're using a lever you may see some drops of coffee falling into the cup.

This is OK.

This blooming stage will all take about 10-40 secs.

3. After the blooming stage is finished, ramp the pressure up (8-9 bar).

Try to maintain flow at 2ml/sec.

I like to aim for a 1: 3 ratio.

Or go even longer.

Pull 1:4 or even 1:5

The Slayer shot profile.

This is another famous espresso style which many baristas try to emulate on their coffee machines.

It was made famous by the "slayer machine"

The Slayer is one of those holy grail machines.

This pic is of a single group version with a saturated group head.

What truly sets Slayer coffee machines apart from the rest is its patented Espresso two stage Needle Valve.

This was created to control the flow rate,.

This technology gives you the ability to adjust the water flow during the pre-infusion stage.

A slayer shot puts water slowly onto the puck (2mls/sec) for typically 25 - 40 secs.

(Its very different to a Londinium shot).

You can do this with any machine which allows you to control flow & pressure.

https://slayerespresso.com/dialing-in-the-slayer-espresso/

It uses very low initial pressure & flow during pre-infusion.

At the end of this time, the puck is fully saturated and the pressure will rise.

You only end the pre-infusion when you see the first drops of coffee at the bottom.

The nice thing about this is that it addresses solubility, esp for coffees like light roasts (where you need more contact time). The puck releases CO2 & gently expands in the basket. ... less chance of channeling.

Because prefusion takes so long, there will be a difference in water/coffee contact between the coffee at the top and the coffee at the bottom of the puck.

The coffee at the top might have ben in contact for 40 secs, while the coffee at the bottom only 1 sec.

This gradient between the top and bottom results on an uneven pre-infusion.

(The top might be over extracted, while the bottom is under extracted.)

This pre-infusion is followed with a full pressure extraction.

In summary:

2-bar pre-infusion (for 20-40 seconds) and then move to full pressure extraction for another 12-13 seconds

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Monday, 1 July 2024

V60 recipe

The James Hoffman method:

https://www.facebook.com/jameshoffmanncoffee/videos/461558306778772/

INGREDIENTS:

15g ground coffee

250g soft, filtered water.

(heat water to 100c)

Grind: medium-fine.... like salt

Use a plastic V-60 as its better for heat retention.

Preheat under tap hot water.

Make a depression in the middle of the coffee. This is where you start your pour.

We are pouring in 50g steps.

The first pour takes 45s.

Following this: 10s pour, 10s wait, 10s pour, 10sec wait, etc

Expect a 3 min brew.

STEPS:

- 0m00s: Start your timer and pour 50g of water to bloom

- 0m10s - 0m15s: Gently Swirl

- 0m00s - 0m45s: Bloom

- 0m45s - 1m00s: Pour up to 100g total (40% total weight)

- 1m00s - 1m10s: Pause

- 1m10s - 1m20s: Pour up to 150g total (60% total weight)

- 1m20s - 1m30s: Pause

- 1m30s - 1m40s: Pour up to 200g total (80% total weight)

- 1m40s - 1m50s: Pause

- 1m50s - 2m00s: Pour up to 250g total (100% total weight)

- 2m00s - 2m05s:

Gently swirl the brewer

- Drawdown should finish around 3:00, but expect some variance here.

Taste is the most important thing!

Gaggiuino - boiler & pump removal & first tests - part 6

These are my personal build notes for building the Gaggiuino espresso machine.

I'm not a part of the Gaggiuino team.

The project is not for profit.

This is really fun if you're interested in learning how microcontrollers such as the Arduino

can be applied to solving a daily problem of mine ..... how to consistently make a great cup of coffee.

The Gaggiuino team have come up with a solution for modifying a relatively inexpensive coffee machine into something amazing.

This particular modification uses a STM32F411CEU6 (BlackPill) microcontroller.

Part 1,2,3,4 & 5 are here:

Part 1 Gaggiuino Build Log with Workflow intro

Part 2 Gaggiuino V3 - Build Log Notes - switches, PCB

Part 3 Gaggiunio mod - The original Classic Pro - How it works

Part 4 Gaggiuino - boot first time

Part 5 Gaggiuino - wiring

The build might change as I work through the various issues which will obviously happen.

I'll update as I go along.

Gaggiuino Project Page

https://gaggiuino.github.io/

Discord;

https://gaggiuino.github.io/#/community/community-media

facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/5362374853865845/

I've decided to do a custom rewiring.

So I think I'll need to remove the boiler.

Removal of the boiler & pump will make things easier

to get to the connectors.

You can also remove the 20 min timer PCB while you're at it.

First number all the connections before you disconnect anything.

The single boiler has two heating elements.

They are connected to 1,2,3,4.

5 & 6 are connected to the steam thermostat.

Pop out the switches . label them of course.

Power, Brew, steam

I'll need to remove the switch housings later.

I'll also need to remove the thermal fuse (thermafuse) from the top of the boiler.

The fuse cuts power off to the machine.

Dm1040

Next remove the steam wand.

The screw in the container belongs to the therma fuse bracket. It holds the fuse against the boiler.

The machine is looking a lot less cluttered and easier to get into

The boiler is just held in place with 4 Allen head screws

Making the T-junction hose

These hose clamps are the best .... They only need a screwdriver to tighten.

The other end of this hose connects to the Pressure Transducer. (0-1.2 Mpa, 5V, G1/4)

You need to cut the orange hose and inset the T-junction

Remove the pump first to make this easier (see below)

As I got deeper into this project, I started to remove more and more cables.

In the end, I removed everything,.... even the boiler and pump.

It really wasn't so hard.

------------

The pump

To remove the pump

I first removed the power socket.

The pump wiring circuit.

This is the longest (and most confusing) section of cabling.

I left the original Gaggia cable that was attached to the pump (at the pump fuse), and extended one end

to AC on the PCB & the other to the neutral Power Socket. This cable already had the LAMPS attached. I had to extend it further and add extra cabling for the boiler & SSRs.

There is a Allen screw you need to loosen

which sits right under the socket terminals.

If you have a long necked Allen screwdriver it

will be a breeze.

The other screw has a Phillips head.

You don't have to remove the other Allen screw to remove the pump.

BTW, this also removes the 20min timer circuit which is housed in the black box next to the pump.

The Gaggiuino doesn't use this board.

You can now easily access the pump connections.

The old fuse

...

.....

The new resettable fuse. 185 degrees C. 16A, M4

Oh dear....the time of reckoning is approaching.

The white hose hanging over the edge of the Gaggia in the pic below, is connected to that "T-junction" inside the machine. It's other end connects to the pressure transducer which "talks" to the Blackpill microcontroller, relaying info about the pump pressure.

In the end, I did a full custom wire installation. This wasn't my intention in the beginning.

I ended up using most of the cables that came with the Gaggia and just a few that came with my Peak kit.

I've never done anything like this before, but its pretty straightforward if you study the circuit diagram carefully. Always double check the connections.