Rolex DateJust - history

The Rolex Datejust is a historic luxury wristwatch introduced in 1945 to celebrate the brand's 40th anniversary. [1, 2]

It was the world's first self-winding wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date window on the dial. [1]

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History and Evolution

• 1945 (Reference 4467): Rolex launched the original Datejust in 18-karat yellow gold. It combined the waterproof Oyster case (1926) and the self-winding Perpetual movement (1931) with a new date-display function. It also debuted the five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. [1, 2, 3, 4]
• 1953: Rolex added the signature Cyclops lens—a magnifying glass over the date window that magnifies it 2.5 times for easier reading. [1, 2]
• 1955: The date mechanism was updated to change instantaneously at midnight rather than slowly over a few hours. [1, 2]
• Late 1950s–1980s (Ref. 1600 series): Stainless steel and two-tone "Rolesor" (steel and gold) versions expanded the line. The introduction of Caliber 3035 in the late 1970s brought the quickset date feature, letting wearers change the date independently of the hour hands. [1, 2]
• 1988 (Ref. 16200 series): Sapphire crystals replaced fragile acrylic crystals, and the upgraded Caliber 3135 movement arrived. [1, 2]
• Modern Era (2016–Present): The lineup expanded across sizes (from 28mm Lady-Datejust models up to the modern 36mm and 41mm versions). Current models run on the Caliber 3235 movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve and Superlative Chronometer certification (-2/+2 seconds per day). [1, 2, 3]

Read more about its lineage on the Rolex Datejust History Guide or via Monochrome Watches. [1, 2]

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Significance in Horology and Culture

• Horological Milestone: It set the global template for the modern utility wristwatch by merging timekeeping, self-winding convenience, water resistance, and calendar functions into a single cohesive piece. [1, 2]
• Design Blueprint: Features like the fluted or smooth bezel, the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, the Cyclops lens, and the date window at 3 o'clock established a timeless aesthetic that has barely changed in over 80 years. [1, 2]
• Iconic Wearers: The Datejust became a symbol of achievement, worn by historical and public figures—including Winston Churchill, who received an early gold Datejust from Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, and Martin Luther King Jr., who wore one during major civil rights milestones. [1, 2]
• Versatility: Positioned between a rugged tool watch and a formal dress watch, it remains one of the most versatile and recognizable luxury watches in production

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40mm Submariner (1166XX and 114060)

For 40mm submariners (i.e. those with reference number 1166XX) There are six options:

There are 3135 movement "clones" such as VS Factory 3135, VR3135, SH3135, SA3135 etc to experiment with.\

No date: VR3130 & VS3130, SH3130, AR3130, SA3130

There are also 3235 clones.... Dandong VS 3235

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 Tudor (Rolex’s sister company) historically used ETA movements—including the ETA 2824 in models like early Tudor Heritage Black Bay and Pelagos watches—but Tudor is a separate brand from Rolex. [1, 2]. the movement is the foundation of the Tudor T601 caliber still used in some of the Rolex-owned brand's lower-tier watches.

Rolex-Style Clones: While genuine ETA 2824 movements are never found in real Rolex timepieces, they (or Chinese clone movements like the PT5000 and Seagull ST2130) are frequently used by hobbyists or replica makers in custom "Rolex-style" or "mod" builds.

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