The speedmaster began in 1957, originally as a motorsport/racing chronograph, not a space watch. It became famous because NASA selected it for manned spaceflight, and in 1965 it was officially qualified for all manned NASA missions.
It then became the watch associated with:
- Mercury
- Gemini
- Apollo
- the Apollo 11 Moon landing
- Apollo 13
- Skylab
- Space Shuttle missions
- and subsequent NASA/ESA spaceflight
The remarkable thing is that the basic architecture has survived for nearly 70 years.
The birth of the Speedmaster — 1957
The original Speedmaster appeared in 1957 as part of Omega's "Professional" trilogy:
- Speedmaster — chronograph
- Seamaster 300 — diving watch
- Railmaster — anti-magnetic watch
Key characteristics:
- 38.6 mm case
- broad "Broad Arrow" hands
- stainless-steel bezel
- tachymeter scale
- straight lugs
- three-register chronograph
- Calibre 321
The tachymeter was particularly important. Unlike most chronographs of the era, the scale was placed on the bezel, making it possible to calculate speed without having to put the scale on the dial.
It was fundamentally a racing watch.
Omega's current Speedmaster Pilot still deliberately echoes the design language of the 1957 original.
The Calibre 321 — arguably the most important Speedmaster movement
It is:
- manual wind
- column wheel
- horizontal/lever coupling
- 21,600 vph
- approximately 44-hour power reserve
- highly regarded for its mechanical architecture
- beautifully finished in modern versions
CK2998 — the first Speedmaster in space
It introduced the appearance that would eventually evolve into the familiar Moonwatch:
- black tachymeter bezel
- Alpha hands
- symmetrical case
- slimmer appearance
- Calibre 321
Most importantly, astronaut Wally Schirra personally owned and wore a CK2998 during Sigma 7 in 1962.
CK2915 → CK2998 → 105.012/145.012
at the top of the vintage Speedmaster hierarchy.
NASA changes everything
The Speedmaster's transformation from racing watch to space instrument is extraordinary.
NASA subjected watches to brutal testing involving things such as:
- extreme temperatures
- shock
- vibration
- acceleration
- decompression
- humidity
- magnetic effects
- chronograph operation
The Speedmaster passed.
On 1 March 1965, NASA officially declared the Speedmaster "Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions."
That decision changed the destiny of the watch.
The Moonwatch — 1960s
It still used the Calibre 321.
105.012
This is arguably the definitive vintage Moonwatch.
It has:
- twisted lyre lugs
- asymmetrical case
- crown guards
- Calibre 321
- the basic case architecture recognisable today
Most importantly, Buzz Aldrin wore a 105.012 on Apollo 11.
Neil Armstrong's Speedmaster was apparently left aboard the lunar module because the onboard electronic timing system had failed, so Aldrin's watch became the famous first watch worn on the Moon.
145.012
This was the final major Calibre 321 Speedmaster.
It is extremely important to collectors because it represents the end of the original 321 era
Calibre 861 — the great change
In approximately 1968, Omega replaced the 321 with the:
Calibre 861
This was another Lemania-derived movement but technically different.
The biggest change was:
column wheel → cam switching
That made the movement:
- cheaper to manufacture
- easier to service
- more suited to large-scale production
- extremely robust
The 861 operated at 21,600 vph, compared with the 18,000 vph of earlier versions.
This became the workhorse Speedmaster movement for decades.
And this is one of the most important distinctions when collecting vintage Speedmasters:
321 = historically prestigious
The 145.022
The 145.022, introduced around 1968, is one of the most important Speedmaster references.
It retained the classic Moonwatch appearance but used the Calibre 861.
This reference was produced for many years, with numerous sub-references and dial/bezel variations.
There are therefore enormous differences in collectibility between apparently similar 145.022 watches.
Things collectors examine include:
- production year
- movement serial
- dial
- hands
- bezel
- caseback
- bracelet
- DON bezel
- stepped/non-stepped dial
- applied logo vs printed logo
- tritium condition
- originality
Why Speedmasters become collectible
This is where Speedmaster collecting becomes almost like collecting vintage cars.
Two watches that look almost identical can be worth radically different amounts.
The hierarchy is roughly:
| Level | Speedmaster |
|---|---|
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | CK2915 |
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | early CK2998 |
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | NASA/Astronaut provenance |
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | exceptional 105.003/105.012 |
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | 145.012 |
| ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | early 145.022 |
| ⭐⭐⭐ | later vintage 145.022 |
| ⭐⭐ | ordinary 861 Moonwatch |
| ⭐ | modern standard Moonwatch |
What makes a vintage Speedmaster rare?
This is particularly important.
1. Original bezel
A vintage tachymeter bezel can be worth an extraordinary amount by itself.
Certain early bezels have features collectors call:
DON — Dot Over Ninety
The placement of the dot relative to "90" is a major vintage identification characteristic.
2. Original dial
Original dials are enormously important.
A perfect-looking replacement dial can actually make a watch less collectible than a weathered but original dial.
3. Original hands
Again, originality matters.
4. Correct movement
The movement must correspond to the reference and production period.
5. Case condition
Polishing is controversial.
A heavily polished Speedmaster can lose considerable collector appeal because the original geometry of the lugs is extremely important.
6. Provenance
This can be transformational.
A normal 145.012 might be valuable.
A 145.012 with documented astronaut provenance can be a completely different category of collectible.
Omega itself acquired the Speedmaster ST145.012 worn by writer Ralph Ellison, which had been delivered in 1968 and worn by him for more than 25 years
The "best" vintage Speedmasters
If I were building a serious Speedmaster collection, I'd particularly look at these:
🥇 CK2915
The original.
Why it's important:
- first Speedmaster
- 1957
- Broad Arrow hands
- steel bezel
- Calibre 321
- incredibly rare
This is arguably the Holy Grail of production Speedmasters.
🥈 CK2998
Probably the most desirable combination of:
vintage beauty + space history + rarity
And the Wally Schirra connection makes it historically extraordinary.
Omega itself describes the CK2998 as the second generation Speedmaster, first released in 1959.
🥉 105.003
The Ed White Speedmaster.
For many collectors, this is one of the purest vintage Speedmasters.
No crown guards.
Straight-lug case.
Calibre 321.
Extremely important NASA history.
105.012
Possibly the most historically important production Speedmaster.
Why?
Because this is the basic watch architecture associated with the Apollo 11 Moon landing.
If someone says:
"I want the vintage Moonwatch"
this is one of the references I'd immediately investigate.
145.012
The final 321 Speedmaster.
This makes it particularly interesting:
NASA history + Moonwatch design + final 321 production.
It is arguably one of the best entry points into serious vintage Speedmaster collecting.
11. Calibre 1861
After the 861 came various developments including the:
Calibre 1861
This became the famous modern Moonwatch movement for many years.
Essentially:
861 → 1861
The architecture remained recognisably the same.
The 1861 was:
- manual wind
- cam-operated chronograph
- 21,600 vph
- robust
- relatively inexpensive to service
- historically proven
It powered generations of Speedmaster Professionals.
12. The modern revolution — Calibre 3861
In 2021 Omega introduced the modern:
Calibre 3861
This is where the traditional Moonwatch finally received a major movement upgrade.
It retains the basic historical architecture but adds:
Co-Axial escapement
Omega's co-axial escapement reduces sliding friction compared with conventional Swiss lever designs.
Master Chronometer certification
The watch is tested by METAS for:
- precision
- magnetic resistance
- power reserve
- water resistance
Omega describes Master Chronometer as a significantly more demanding standard than traditional chronometer certification.
Anti-magnetism
The 3861 uses modern silicon technology and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss.
Power reserve
Approximately 50 hours.
So you get an extraordinary combination:
1957 architecture + 1960s space heritage + 21st-century movement technology.
13. The current Moonwatch
The current Speedmaster Professional is essentially the culmination of this evolutionary chain:
321 → 861 → 1861 → 3861
That's one of the most interesting things about the Speedmaster.
It isn't a watch that gets completely redesigned every decade.
Instead, Omega has continuously evolved the same fundamental concept.
The current 3861-powered Moonwatch is available in both Hesalite and sapphire versions, with different metals and configurations.
14. Hesalite vs Sapphire
This is one of the great Moonwatch debates.
Hesalite
Pros:
- historically correct
- warm vintage appearance
- NASA-style
- scratches can be polished
- usually cheaper
Cons:
- scratches relatively easily
- less luxurious
- no display back on traditional versions
Sapphire
Pros:
- extremely scratch resistant
- display caseback
- beautiful movement
- more luxurious
- excellent everyday watch
Cons:
- less historically authentic
- more reflective
- generally more expensive
For a historical purist:
Hesalite.
For a watch enthusiast who wants to admire the movement:
Sapphire.
15. The Speedmaster family is much bigger than the Moonwatch
This is another reason the Speedmaster is so interesting.
Today the family includes:
Speedmaster Professional / Moonwatch
The classic NASA watch.
Speedmaster '57
Modern reinterpretations of the 1957 design.
Speedmaster Racing
More contemporary motorsport-oriented watches.
Speedmaster 38
Smaller cases and more jewellery-oriented designs.
Dark Side of the Moon
Modern ceramic Speedmasters.
Grey Side of the Moon
Silver Snoopy Award
Speedmaster Skywalker X-33
Speedmaster Chrono Chime
Special editions
And dozens upon dozens of limited/commemorative models.
Omega's current Speedmaster collection spans Moonwatch, '57, Racing, 38 and Skywalker X-33 families.
16. The Apollo 13 / Snoopy Speedmaster
One of the most fascinating modern Speedmasters is the Silver Snoopy Award.
During Apollo 13 in 1970, the astronauts had to perform a critical engine burn while their electronic systems were severely compromised.
The mechanical Speedmaster was used to time the burn.
The astronauts survived.
NASA subsequently awarded Omega the Silver Snoopy Award for its contribution to the mission.
This has produced some of the most collectible modern Speedmasters.
The Snoopy editions are particularly interesting because they combine:
NASA history + animation/pop culture + mechanical watchmaking.
17. The Dark Side of the Moon
The Dark Side of the Moon, introduced in 2013, was a radical departure.
Instead of traditional stainless steel:
ceramic case + modern Co-Axial movement.
It transformed the Speedmaster from an old-fashioned mechanical chronograph into a very modern luxury sports watch.
The Apollo 8 versions are particularly interesting.
Omega has even used laser ablation to create a detailed lunar surface on movement components in the Apollo 8 models.
18. The really crazy Speedmaster: Chrono Chime
If you're interested in movements, this one is fascinating.
Calibre 1932
Omega created a movement combining:
chronograph + minute repeater
That's an extraordinary complication.
It was developed over six years and contains a mechanical system that effectively "thinks" about the elapsed chronograph time and chimes it.
This is far removed from the humble 1957 racing Speedmaster.
My Speedmaster movement hierarchy
Given your interest in watch movements, I'd rank the important Speedmaster calibres roughly like this:
| Rank | Movement | Importance |
|---|---|---|
| 🥇 | 321 | Historic masterpiece |
| 🥈 | 3861 | Modern technical masterpiece |
| 🥉 | 861 | Great industrial workhorse |
| 4 | 1861 | Ultimate evolution of 861 |
| 5 | 321 modern | Beautiful modern recreation |
| 6 | 9300/9900 family | Modern automatic Co-Axial |
| 7 | 1863 | Display-back version of 1861 |
| 8 | 3869 | Apollo 8 ceramic movement |
| 9 | 3330 | Automatic Speedmaster family |
| 10 | 1932 | Complication masterpiece |
20. My "best Speedmasters" ranking
If we combine history + collectability + movement + design, rather than simply price:
🏆 Top 10
1. CK2915
The original Speedmaster.
2. CK2998
First-generation space legend.
3. 105.003
Ed White / early NASA era.
4. 105.012
Apollo 11 / Moonwatch icon.
5. 145.012
Final Calibre 321 Moonwatch.
6. 145.022 "Straight Writing" / early examples
Excellent entry into serious vintage collecting.
7. Modern 3861 Moonwatch Hesalite
Probably the best everyday historical Speedmaster.
8. Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award
One of the best modern special editions.
9. Speedmaster Apollo 8 Dark Side of the Moon
Outstanding combination of movement and design.
10. Speedmaster '57
Best modern interpretation of the original racing Speedmaster.
21. The really important collector distinction
If you're considering buying one, I'd divide Speedmasters into four worlds:
🟢 Modern Moonwatch
Best for wearing
3861
Excellent movement
Excellent accuracy
Very robust
Relatively accessible
🔵 Vintage 861
Best value vintage Speedmaster
145.022 etc.
You get much of the vintage character without paying 321 prices.
🟠 Vintage 321
Best serious collector territory
105.003
105.012
145.012
CK2998
This is where condition, originality and provenance become absolutely critical.
🔴 Early Speedmasters
Museum/serious collector territory
CK2915
early CK2998
These are the Speedmasters I'd regard as the "Patek/Rolex vintage collector" equivalent within Omega.
One particularly interesting thing about the Speedmaster
The Speedmaster is unusual because it has three separate identities:
1957–1964:
🏎️ Racing chronograph
1965 onward:
🚀 NASA professional instrument
1980s onward:
⌚ Luxury/heritage icon
And somehow Omega has managed to preserve all three.
That's why I think the Speedmaster deserves a place alongside the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak when discussing the most historically important modern wristwatches
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