Wednesday, 17 October 2018

Seagull ST3620 (Unitas 6498)

The Sea-Gull ST3620 is a manual-wind mechanical watch movement and an unlicenced clone of the famous Swiss ETA Unitas 6498 caliber. [1, 2, 3]
It is widely used by hobbyist watchmakers, custom builders, and microbrands. [1, 2]
Watch a breakdown and comparison of the Sea-Gull ST3600 and ST3620 movements:
18:01
Key Specifications
  • Type: Manual-wind (hand-wound) mechanical movement
  • Swiss Equivalent: ETA / Unitas 6498 (small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position)
  • Jewels: 17 jewels
  • Vibration / Beat Rate: 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph) or 3 Hz
  • Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours
  • Dimensions: Roughly 36.6 mm diameter (though pocket-watch and case implementations can vary) [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]
Design and Layout
  • Seconds Sub-Dial: The ST3620 features the small seconds hand positioned at 6 o'clock. (Its sister movement, the ST3600, mirrors the ETA 6497 with the seconds hand at 9 o'clock). [1, 2]
  • Architecture: Based on a large pocket-watch caliber design, making it relatively large, easy to handle, and popular for use in pilot-style or oversized wristwatches. [1, 2]
Common Characteristics & Quirks
  • Affordability & Modding: Popular for custom builds, skeleton variants (such as the ST36K), and learning watchmaking because parts and replacement movements are inexpensive. [1, 2, 3]
  • Tolerances and QC: As a clone, its factory quality control, tolerances, and finishing can vary compared to Swiss originals. Some builders note minor fitting differences or ridges depending on the case design. [1, 2]
  • Winding Pinion Nuance: Some watchmakers note a known design quirk where the stock winding pinion can occasionally skip or slip against the crown wheel compared to a genuine ETA part, though it remains functional

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